Review: Calligraphy Alphabets Made Easy, by Margaret Shepherd Sunday, Oct 19 2008 

This is not a straightforward review–I am reviewing this book strictly in terms of its usefulness as a reference for historical calligraphers. It’s set up for you to work through with an alphabet every day and a project a week, but I’m ignoring that and looking at it solely as an alphabet modelbook.

Calligraphy Alphabets Made Easy
Margaret Shepherd
Penguin, 1986, 112 pp.

This book provides little specific instruction for the individual alphabets, so I would not recommend it for a beginner. Of the 365 alphabets, most are modern or whimsical, but some are historical, historically based, or suitable as faux or pseudoscripts for SCA purposes (faux Chinese, faux Arabic, etc.).

Roman – A straightforward Roman capital hand.
Celtic Any Case – Based on Uncial, but not very historical; I wouldn’t use it.
Namor – Roman mirror writing.
Lower Kingdom – A nice faux Chinese script.
Coiltic – “A fanciful modern invented style, based on 8th-century coiled Celtic.” I don’t know enough about Celtic to comment on this, but it might be a good starting point.
Swash Capitals – Simple swash capitals suitable for use with Italic hands.
Split Swash – Wouldn’t be out of place for the Renaissance.
Basic Gothic – A fairly generic Gothic hand; not glaringly modern, but there are better ones.
Super Celtic – Stretched letters for filling the ends of lines. “Many of these letters come from the Book of Kells.”
Vivaldi – Decorative Italic-based capitals; not historical but would work as capitals with an historical Italic hand.
Swash Italic – A simple swash hand, not extremely historical but a good starting point.
Backward Italic – A back-slanting Italic hand “based on a 16th-century Italian style by Tagliente.”
Turned Celtic – A more historical Uncial-inspired hand.
Arched Italic – Looks a bit like a cross between Batarde and Italic; not historical to my knowledge but looks like something Renaissance calligraphers might have played with.
Caroling – VERY loosely based on Caroline Minuscule; please don’t use this.
Lag B’omer – A faux Hebew script
Jerusalem – A more obviously English faux Hebrew script.
Fraktur – A 16th century German Gothic hand.
Fraktur Capitals – For use with Fraktur.
Concave Gothic and Concave Scroll – A generic modern Gothic hand.
Half-Round Gothic – Somewhat similar to Early Gothic.
Rustica – “A 5th-century rendition of a 1st-century Roman.”
Split Swash – A nice swash capital alphabet for a split pen.
Gothic Caps – Generic Gothic capitals.
Endless – Capital letters made up of continuous lines. Not historical, but would work as a substitute for simple cadels or Italic swash capitals.
Dürer Caps – “Copies of 15th-century German woodcuts.”
Antiquarr – “A 16th-century design by Ludovico Arrighi.” Lowercase, missing j, v, and w.
Magdalene – Capitals “adapted from a 15th-century copy book.”
Frills – “16th-century capitals by Arrighi.” Simple cadels, no j, u, or w.
Florentine – “16th-century Italian style” with decorative descenders.
Russian – A faux Cyrillic hand, but based on modern Russian–not very similar to historical Cyrillic hands.
Delhight – A faux Sanskrit hand.
Upper Kingdom – Another faux Chinese hand. Some of the letters are real Chinese characters or partial ones, so I would be careful using this.
Shivered – A very decorative Gothic hand–similar to some in 16th century modelbook Mira Calligraphiae Monumenta.
Twinings – A generic Gothic hand with a variety of suggested decorative ascenders, some period, some not. Use with care.
Benedictus – “14th-century letters” with decorative ascenders.
Versals – Simple initial letters.
Gothic Initials – A not very exciting set of generic Gothic capitals.
Embellished Gothic – “Some of these ornaments came from medieval manuscripts; others are modern inventions.” A nice hand.

Please note that these assessments are all mine, and I’m not extremely familiar with all the Gothic hands. Overall, however, I think this book has enough historical or near-historical hands to be useful for the SCA calligrapher, and Lower Kingdom and Upper Kingdom are the best faux Chinese scripts I’ve seen so far.

Ottonian doodles Sunday, Mar 30 2008 

I have been working on an approximation of the Ottonian gold-on-purple calligraphy. The originals were on murex-dyed vellum (or, in some cases, vellum dyed with cheaper dyes) in shell gold. As I cannot afford murex and don’t want to work with shell gold yet, I’m trying to come up with substitutes. Ideally, I want the purple to be semi-transparent and slightly streaky, but not extremely streaky. I think this should be possible with watercolors, but I’m not very good with watercolors, as this doodle shows.

ottoniantest.jpg

This doodle is on purple watercolor (which came out way too streaky) with an acrylic gold calligraphy ink. Previously I tried W&N drawing ink (MASSIVE FAIL), thinned gold W&N gouache (fail), and PearlEx mixed with gum arabic and water (better than the others, but didn’t work well). Anyway, the acrylic calligraphy ink worked okay, but unfortunately, it has a brown base and the gold isn’t very bright, so the contrast with the background isn’t very good.

I’m still trying to get the hang of metallic calligraphy. The examples of Ottonian gold-on-purple calligraphy I’ve seen in books definitely aren’t as crisp as regular black calligraphy; I think it’s an inevitable byproduct of the metallic powder. But I think I’m going to try thinning some yellow gouache and mixing in PearlEx for a brighter gold and see if that works as ink. I’m also going to use a more reddish purple (one of the pieces I like is more of a purpleish red), and use quinacridone red gouache and a touch of the indanthrene blue watercolor, so it’ll be very slightly transparent, but not as wet or streaky as the watercolor. Hopefully that will work! I really want to figure out this technique.

The borders are just different experiments based on a few different examples. I’m happy with parts of them but not others, and of course I’d be more careful about my lines on an actual scroll. I think more whitework would definitely improve them. I’m not sure I like the wide border on the left–the multibanded border on the top looks more interesting to me.

The colors are pretty far off the original–anyway, the greens are viridian- and sap green-based (viridian is a pain to work with! I think I’d rather use phathalo green), the red is pyrrol red (too bright and not orange enough–also covers badly, so I think I need to use a different red for outlining, although I might be able to mix it with one of the red earth oxides), the blue is ultramarine (it scanned BADLY), purple is indanthrene blue + quinacridone red, gold is PearlEx Brilliant Gold. I wish I could figure out how to correct the colors better, but oh well. I should probably just take photos in natural light.

Anyway, I think I’ve got an idea of where to go with this next, which was the point of the exercise.

Calligraphy and illumination class! Monday, Mar 10 2008 

I’m going to take a calligraphy and illumination class in May, which I expect to be fun. Here’s the class description:

Celtic And Historical Calligraphy

During this course you will learn the skills of the masters of European Calligraphy. We’ll cover historical inking colours, their origins and how they are made. Parchments and vellums, various papers, quill types, quill cutting, scripting tables, layout geometry, and related themes will be demonstrated and discussed. Period scripting and styles, including Celtic, Ottonian, Renaissance, and others, will be explained and illustrated. Skill in scripting, design, illustration, and illumination is used in historical reproduction work as well as modern art. The information presented will surprise modern digital graphic ad layout artists, enhancing their knowledge and depth in their own professional fields. Please bring $10 to class for materials.

It’s a two-day workshop taught by Dan Cheatham II, who’s clearly trying to spin it to appeal to modern graphic artists, but his real interests are historical. So more practice making period paints, AND he has genuine lapis and malachite to play with, which will be exciting since there is no freaking way I’m going to buy lapis to grind up myself at the current prices. So this may be my chance to find out how genuine lapis looks and handles differently from synthetic ultramarine.

Dan also teaches a longbow making class, which would really tempt me if I liked shooting longbows, which I don’t. But I am tempted by the leatherwork class, since several people have suggested tooling as an alternative to stamping for the Gothic-lettered motto belts I want to make from Dress Accessories, and Melchior and his boss don’t do tooling at work on account of things like profit margins. So getting some instruction in that might be a good idea. I’ll have to see how finances and time go.

There’s a baronial corset workshop coming up, so I need to do a mockup fitted as far as I can get without help on the modified Dorothea bodies.

My first award scroll Sunday, Mar 9 2008 

Ottonian blank AoA

(click for larger image)

I finished my first award scroll for the blank scroll competition at Outlands Crown this weekend (Lady Lucrezia took it for me). It’s based loosely on the Gregori Moralium, a 10th-11th century Ottonian manuscript, and I’m not exactly pleased with it–it was my first attempt and has loads of problems, both in terms of historical accuracy and technique (my Carolingian spacing in particular needs lots of work!), but I learned a lot. You can also tell that I became much steadier with my brush about halfway through–all the outlining on the illumination is done with a brush, including the really fine lines around the text decorations. The outlining on the initial U was a lot messier before I went over it again, which is why that outlining is so broad. This was also the first time I used a dip pen, and while it’s much easier than a cartridge pen, you can definitely tell I wasn’t quite used to it.

I really like Ottonian stuff, though, and since Carolingian is the only hand I’ve tried that doesn’t make me want to give up in frustration, I think I’ll stick with this style for now. I’d really like to try the gold-on-purple, and some of the zoomorphic animal initials. I might also see if anyone needs Russian or Arabic scrolls, since I’m fairly sure I could do those after refreshing my Arabic alphabet. I’m hoping to do some non-blank scrolls, though….

Full documentation (written in an afternoon and not really up to my usual citation standards) can be downloaded here: Documentation for Ottonian blank AoA (PDF).