Review: Calligraphy Alphabets Made Easy, by Margaret Shepherd Sunday, Oct 19 2008 

This is not a straightforward review–I am reviewing this book strictly in terms of its usefulness as a reference for historical calligraphers. It’s set up for you to work through with an alphabet every day and a project a week, but I’m ignoring that and looking at it solely as an alphabet modelbook.

Calligraphy Alphabets Made Easy
Margaret Shepherd
Penguin, 1986, 112 pp.

This book provides little specific instruction for the individual alphabets, so I would not recommend it for a beginner. Of the 365 alphabets, most are modern or whimsical, but some are historical, historically based, or suitable as faux or pseudoscripts for SCA purposes (faux Chinese, faux Arabic, etc.).

Roman – A straightforward Roman capital hand.
Celtic Any Case – Based on Uncial, but not very historical; I wouldn’t use it.
Namor – Roman mirror writing.
Lower Kingdom – A nice faux Chinese script.
Coiltic – “A fanciful modern invented style, based on 8th-century coiled Celtic.” I don’t know enough about Celtic to comment on this, but it might be a good starting point.
Swash Capitals – Simple swash capitals suitable for use with Italic hands.
Split Swash – Wouldn’t be out of place for the Renaissance.
Basic Gothic – A fairly generic Gothic hand; not glaringly modern, but there are better ones.
Super Celtic – Stretched letters for filling the ends of lines. “Many of these letters come from the Book of Kells.”
Vivaldi – Decorative Italic-based capitals; not historical but would work as capitals with an historical Italic hand.
Swash Italic – A simple swash hand, not extremely historical but a good starting point.
Backward Italic – A back-slanting Italic hand “based on a 16th-century Italian style by Tagliente.”
Turned Celtic – A more historical Uncial-inspired hand.
Arched Italic – Looks a bit like a cross between Batarde and Italic; not historical to my knowledge but looks like something Renaissance calligraphers might have played with.
Caroling – VERY loosely based on Caroline Minuscule; please don’t use this.
Lag B’omer – A faux Hebew script
Jerusalem – A more obviously English faux Hebrew script.
Fraktur – A 16th century German Gothic hand.
Fraktur Capitals – For use with Fraktur.
Concave Gothic and Concave Scroll – A generic modern Gothic hand.
Half-Round Gothic – Somewhat similar to Early Gothic.
Rustica – “A 5th-century rendition of a 1st-century Roman.”
Split Swash – A nice swash capital alphabet for a split pen.
Gothic Caps – Generic Gothic capitals.
Endless – Capital letters made up of continuous lines. Not historical, but would work as a substitute for simple cadels or Italic swash capitals.
Dürer Caps – “Copies of 15th-century German woodcuts.”
Antiquarr – “A 16th-century design by Ludovico Arrighi.” Lowercase, missing j, v, and w.
Magdalene – Capitals “adapted from a 15th-century copy book.”
Frills – “16th-century capitals by Arrighi.” Simple cadels, no j, u, or w.
Florentine – “16th-century Italian style” with decorative descenders.
Russian – A faux Cyrillic hand, but based on modern Russian–not very similar to historical Cyrillic hands.
Delhight – A faux Sanskrit hand.
Upper Kingdom – Another faux Chinese hand. Some of the letters are real Chinese characters or partial ones, so I would be careful using this.
Shivered – A very decorative Gothic hand–similar to some in 16th century modelbook Mira Calligraphiae Monumenta.
Twinings – A generic Gothic hand with a variety of suggested decorative ascenders, some period, some not. Use with care.
Benedictus – “14th-century letters” with decorative ascenders.
Versals – Simple initial letters.
Gothic Initials – A not very exciting set of generic Gothic capitals.
Embellished Gothic – “Some of these ornaments came from medieval manuscripts; others are modern inventions.” A nice hand.

Please note that these assessments are all mine, and I’m not extremely familiar with all the Gothic hands. Overall, however, I think this book has enough historical or near-historical hands to be useful for the SCA calligrapher, and Lower Kingdom and Upper Kingdom are the best faux Chinese scripts I’ve seen so far.

Flemish Book of Hours Friday, Jul 11 2008 

I (possibly stupidly) agreed to do a document for Caer Galen Defender (which I can’t even attend, as I will be traveling for research). More stupidly, I’m attempting a totally new style–the Flemish Book of Hours with naturalistic borders style. I am fairly happy with my version of batarde (although it is more English than French, I think there’s a lot of flexibility with bastard hands), but I haven’t tried out any of the naturalistic flowers and insects yet. I’m still struggling with layout.

But I am very excited, because there is much more scope for symbolism and little personal details for the recipient with this style, and also I am so frustrated with Carolingian it is a relief to do a more forgiving hand.

The text is very long, though which is giving me a challenge of proportions, even if I use the smallest reasonable nib. It will probably end up being a much larger scroll than I like to do.

Historical Sewing Books: Medieval versus Tudor Tailors Wednesday, Jul 2 2008 

I have pretty much gone from Not Sewing to being fairly decent in the last year. This is almost 100% due to The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant. The reason I love it is because it has very, very clear instructions for drafting a body block, sleeves, and hose, and it gives detailed instructions with every garment on a) how to modify the block appropriately and b) how the garment should fit. Thus far, we have used the instructions to fit me for a kirtle/cote (including sleeves, which aren’t 100% perfect in the wrist/hand region–they were supposed to have mitten cuffs and I had to end them at the wrists–but which are close-fitting and comfortable enough for archery) and F. for a pair of footed hosen (we had some trouble with the feet, but I think that’s inevitable). I also just used the sleeve instructions (which are BRILLIANT) to draft a straight sleeve for my Tudor kirtle.

It’s not a totally comprehensive or perfect book when it comes to medieval clothing–I wish it went far enough back for bliauts, covered other cote construction methods, and went into a crapload more detail on headwear, especially fitting hoods (which still defeats me), but it’s a really, really good basic introduction to drafting and fitting your own patterns.

So, when The Tudor Tailor came out I was really excited. I’m a fan of Ninya Mikhaila, and I was hoping for something similar for 16th century clothing. Unfortunately, not only does it not really discuss fitting very much, much less provide fantastic instructions on how to draft the patterns from a body block, but it doesn’t even tell you much about how the clothing should fit most of the time. Plus a lot of the garments are patterned very oddly when compared to the extant garments they’re based on–this is particularly evident with the loose gown.

I look at The Tudor Tailor a lot for inspiration, and it does have some good technique discussions, but I find it a lot more frustrating–it would almost be easier for me to work from Janet Arnold in some cases (okay, it definitely is).

I really hope the Renaissance Tailor book materializes one of these days, because I think her approach is much closer to that of Medieval Tailor, and the body block approach to sewing works well for me.

Calligraphy and illumination class! Monday, Mar 10 2008 

I’m going to take a calligraphy and illumination class in May, which I expect to be fun. Here’s the class description:

Celtic And Historical Calligraphy

During this course you will learn the skills of the masters of European Calligraphy. We’ll cover historical inking colours, their origins and how they are made. Parchments and vellums, various papers, quill types, quill cutting, scripting tables, layout geometry, and related themes will be demonstrated and discussed. Period scripting and styles, including Celtic, Ottonian, Renaissance, and others, will be explained and illustrated. Skill in scripting, design, illustration, and illumination is used in historical reproduction work as well as modern art. The information presented will surprise modern digital graphic ad layout artists, enhancing their knowledge and depth in their own professional fields. Please bring $10 to class for materials.

It’s a two-day workshop taught by Dan Cheatham II, who’s clearly trying to spin it to appeal to modern graphic artists, but his real interests are historical. So more practice making period paints, AND he has genuine lapis and malachite to play with, which will be exciting since there is no freaking way I’m going to buy lapis to grind up myself at the current prices. So this may be my chance to find out how genuine lapis looks and handles differently from synthetic ultramarine.

Dan also teaches a longbow making class, which would really tempt me if I liked shooting longbows, which I don’t. But I am tempted by the leatherwork class, since several people have suggested tooling as an alternative to stamping for the Gothic-lettered motto belts I want to make from Dress Accessories, and Melchior and his boss don’t do tooling at work on account of things like profit margins. So getting some instruction in that might be a good idea. I’ll have to see how finances and time go.

There’s a baronial corset workshop coming up, so I need to do a mockup fitted as far as I can get without help on the modified Dorothea bodies.

Books! (and projects) Wednesday, Jan 9 2008 

On the recommendation of a lady I met last night at fighter practice, I went and checked J.A. Szirmai’s The Archaeology of Medieval Bookbinding out of the library, and since I’m thinking of getting into scribal (at least the calligraphy part), I also checked out Mark Drogin’s Medieval Calligraphy. While wandering through the stacks, I fortuitously came across a couple books very relevant to the insane Chaucer project!

The Renaissance Chaucer, by Alice S. Miskimin is not, unfortunately for me, about printing. But it does contain a wealth of information about Chaucer’s effect on 16th century literature, and also spends several chapters talking about the Elizabethan “Chaucerian” canon, which was approximately 40% not-really-Chaucer (and much of that not only inauthentic, but bad*). This raises some interesting, if hair-pull-provoking, questions about how authentic I want to be.

I also checked out Pica Roman Type in Elizabethan England, by W. Craig Ferguson. A WHOLE BOOK about the type family I want to use! And tons and tons of pictures of book pages, which will give me a wealth of information about layout and initial cap possibilities! Actually, most of the book is pictures of pages.

I also went to my favorite used bookstore and found a cheap copy of Thomasina Beck’s Embroidered Gardens (maybe now that I own it I will actually read the whole thing, haha) and The History and Technique of Lettering, by Alexander Nesbitt, which looked interesting.

Projects:

Avoided working on the camicia last night on account of going to fighter practice, where I showed Lucretzia sketches of possibilities for her blue linen. That went something like this:

ME: So which one do you like better?
HER: I like them all! I can mix and match, right?
ME: Eep.

Anyway, the plan is to get her some more linen for shirts, and make her some more accurate shirts/smocks in various styles (probably one of each–low-necked smock, high gathered neck, and high ungathered neck). During this process, I’ll work on fitting her for a doublet/bodice, and we will go from there. But not much until after Estrella, probably.

I have promised to finish fitting Melchior’s doublet pattern tonight (he wants me to teach him to draft patterns, but he has unrealistic engineer-brained expectations of a magic formula based on measurements–the thought of “eyeballing” the armscye or the shoulder rise makes him grouchy. I think someone who thinks like he does needs to teach him to draft patterns). It is my first attempt at patterning a doublet, using the instructions at The Renaissance Tailor, and I think it’s going pretty well. I do not think I can fit myself, although if I draft the basic pattern, Melchior probably won’t complain too much about fitting. Is it possible to fit a doublet on oneself or is that one of those duct tape dummy things?

Anyway, we watched “just half an hour” of Elizabeth I (Helen Mirren and Jeremy Irons), which was more like an hour, and I did a little more on my first cushion slip. I got sick of outlining, so I’m filling in a few bits. It’s a blue columbine from Tudor Treasures to Embroider, and I was originally going to use the other slips–daffodil, gillyflower, and rose–but counting slips annoys me (I’m not very accurate) and isn’t period anyway, plus I’m unethused about all but the gillyflower (I probably should have done that one, oops). So I think I’m going to just draw the other three slips. Or use the gillyflower and draw the other two. I’m trying to get a good color balance, and toying with either two flowers/two fruits or one slip from each season. But this is probably my modern sensibilities. The slips will be appliqued onto dark red/maroon velvet, most likely.

Possibilities:

  • Strawberry (red and white)
  • Apple (probably yellow or green)
  • Primrose (yellow or some other color)
  • Pansy (various options)
  • Crocus (purple, yellow/orange, white
  • Pine (would be good for winter, but I’m not sure I’ve ever seen a non-deciduous slip)

I should look through my almost-period botanical catalog for ideas.

On the second go-around, after looking at more paintings, I’m less impressed with the costumes in Elizabeth I, but they’re still quite good overall. It does look like they made at least one of everything in Janet Arnold, regardless of period, though, and there are some oddities. On the other hand, woah, a shift that actually appears to be cut correctly, and out of linen!

Still a lovely movie, though.

15th century Italian Tuesday, Jan 8 2008 

Camicia

This is made out of cheap cotton because I can’t afford to go out and buy sufficient handkerchief linen right now. I will eventually replace it with a nicer linen one.

I embroidered the cuffs on 28-ct (I think) even-weave linen in a red-pink-brown cotton floss, short-armed cross stitch over one thread, because I’m lazy. The pattern is only 5 stitches wide, from the New Carolingian Modelbook, so it’s really narrow. I will be sewing them on by hand and eventually picking them off to put on a linen camicia (for future shirt/camicia/smock cuffs and collars, I’ll use a finer-weight 32-ct linen that I found at a needlework store).

I’m using white bias tape for the binding of the neckline (it’s a semi-quick-and-dirty camicia). I would be embroidering the neck binding if this were a linen camicia.

So far I’ve sewed sleeves and gussets to body, embroidered the cuffs (but not attached them), and pinned the binding to the neckline. In the last two months, most of which it spent not being touched. I really hate working on this thing.

Gamurra

The gamurra is the underdress. I have decided on an underbust waistline, but I’m not sure how I’m going to cut the front opening yet. I started patterning it based on my kirtle/cotehardie pattern, which may or may not be historically correct, but we have no idea! And it’s easy. But I need to get the camicia to a semi-finished state (neckline done and sleeves sewn up) before I can do more fitting.

It will be black silk noil on one side (because I have a lot of it and want to use it up; it also drapes nicely and somewhat resembles wool) and yellow linen/cotton (or linen/rayon? I forget) on the other. I was going to dye my salmon pink linen reddish, but I want this done for Caer Galen A&S on the 27th, so that will be another project. The gamurra will be reversible and lace up the bodice with lacing rings, although I haven’t quite determined how.

Giornea

The giornea is a loose tabard-like overgown, which may be worn belted. Haven’t started this yet, but I’m revising my fabric choices. I was going to do one side in a stylized red floral brocade that seems to be mostly cotton (it has a nice soft but heavy drape) and the other out of a gold brocade Martha Stewart tablecloth.

I originally bought that tablecloth to make a Tudor forepart and undersleeves. But after seizing upon the German loose gown in Janet Arnold, I think I will use it for the decorative part of the a-line kirtle.

So I need to find something else in my stash (I am not buying fabric for this project!) to line the giornea. If nothing leaps out at me, I might make a different style of overdress (unlined) out of a green brocade I got first and wait on the giornea. But the giornea is faster, easier, and more versatile. So, I must ponder!

This whole project is an exercise in reversible clothing, which I think I need more of because closet and packing space are both limited (I plan to make my silk dupioni skirt reversible, too). Also it is an exercise in using up some of my fabric stash. Why do I keep buying fabric?* My goals for 2008 is a partial list of projects I already have fabric for! Anyway, I need to sew more, buy less.

*I found some terrifying polyester “moleskin” with little pierced cutouts for less than $4/yard at Hancock the other day, and while it feels odd and is 100% fake and isn’t going anywhere NEAR a campfire, it looks like lightweight pinked leather. I feel slightly bad about it, but the chances of me EVER pinking a leather doublet, paned slops, and flat hat is…well, negative. It is, unfortunately, a slightly bilious shade of olive green, but I think putting a sunny yellow underneath will help. I am now debating whether it is morally wrong to use some of the 5 yards of silk charmeuse I bought for no reason other than that it was beautiful yellow silk charmeuse for $4/yard and I decided I needed some clothing that wasn’t red or dark blue as underlining for polyester. I think the answer is yes, and I will probably buy some cheap yellow cotton instead because I paid less than $12 for the polyester weirdness and using silk in it is wrong (although I might have to use yellow linen for the lining of the slops, since cotton hangs badly). Anyway! But seriously, pretend pinked leather? How could I pass it up, even if it is made of polyester?

In sum: I have a fabric collection problem.

Project update 12/20 Friday, Dec 21 2007 

Green velveteen doublet

I cut out canvas interlining and added some boning. It should ideally be worn over a corset, and probably will be eventually (or passed on to someone smaller than I). I need to take out the shoulder seams and refit the back (I hope that will solve the problem).

15th century Italian chemise

Two movies and an episode of CSI:NY later (I time projects by what I’m watching), I am almost done with the embroidery for the cuffs. It’s a simple, narrow band of 16th century Italian cross-stitch (in the interest of time, short-armed) from the New Carolingian Modelbook. I couldn’t find anything definitively 15th century, but it’s a very simple design. And it still takes an hour an inch. Since I decided I want things embellished right, my concept of appropriate time to spend on an outfit has ballooned. I am not planning on making my own lace, however.

Spanish jerkin

I may hold off on patterning this until I have a corset, since I may want to be able to wear it as a doublet as well (with tie-on sleeves). But I think I have enough thread-wrapped buttons now.

Gloves

I am not yet tackling period gloves, but I bought a nice pair of red leather winter gloves when I am going to attach cuffs to. I’m not embroidering them to death in the satin stitch-and-buillion style that seems to be so common in the late 16th century, but I think my plan is plausible. I will make tabbed cuffs of black velveteen edged with gold lace, with a ruffle of red silk ribbon at the wrist (silk-and-gold ruffles seem to be common on extant pairs). The velveteen will be moderately embroidered with imitation Japan gold in a simple chevron-based pattern and I will sew gold spangles into the lace in lieu of making my own lace (haha). I think it’s a plausible second-best-pair style for lower nobility, particularly c. 1580 rather than later, and I will have something to keep my hands warm at night at Estrella.

The wonderful world of hats

I am pretty unsatisfied with my first attempt at a tall hat (such that I don’t think I’ll ever wear it again). I don’t have sufficient hair to keep a coif on without tons of pins, and I don’t feel stable in a feminine-size tall hat. So I will probably make a full-sized one, and this time I will use one of Lynn McMasters’ patterns. I also want an Italian bonnet, since they’re one of the few things worn with the Spanish doublet gowns I love that isn’t an elaborate hairstyle. And I need a new flat cap (or three) at some point. And a coif or two. I’m also intrigued by this portrait of Katherine Parr, in which she seems to be wearing a plain silk coif with the strings tied around a bun (per Laura Mellin’s theory), with the brim wired and edged with pearls, but not as sharply pointed in front as an “attifet” or a regular coif. The pleated material at the top might possibly be some form of forehead cloth. Anyway, I am intrigued by her hat, which looks like a brimless Tudor flat cap, like the kind men are always wearing in portraits a few decades earlier. But the portrait is from about 1545. I like the effect, though.

Pair of bodies

I have bumped the corset up on my to-do list; I really shouldn’t put it off any further. Sigh. I have pretty much all the materials (unless I decide to use reed instead of cable ties for the first attempt) and I will handsew everything with the blue silk thread I have leftover from another project. Need to decide what to use for the pretty outer layer (I have decided not to have a stereotypical white corset; I’d rather use that handkerchief linen for coifs and such).

In the meantime, corset-free Italian Ren is the next major sewing project.

Like I need more embroidery projects….

But I am temporarily sick of buttons, and embroidery is very portable. I am thinking a handkerchief will be a small project to experiment with reversible blackwork. Probably little Spanish pomegranate motifs in the corners. I really need to get over my love affair with English clothing sometime and do a few Spanish ensembles (a doublet gown, one of the fitted overgowns with doublet and forepart affairs that show up in Spanish and northern Italian paintings, a half bias-cut plaid cotehardie–no, really!–SOMETHING distinctively Spanish, anyway). But English embroidery is more interesting.

Clothing report (and a new name) Monday, Dec 3 2007 

14th century European

I’m basically done with my 14th century outfit–wore it to Caer Galen Toys for Tots in October. I need to take in part of the waist a tiny bit more so it will hang right, but that’s it. I may eventually rip the sleeves out of the kirtle and redraft them to have mitten cuffs and use wood-cored buttons, but they’re serviceable and I may use my leftover blue linen/cotton for a summer camping event doublet instead.

I got more comments on the belt (which took about three hours total) than anything else, probably because belts are more arcane to most people than sewing. Anyway, I’m pretty excited about it–I dyed it myself (modern dyes), finished the edges with wax (speculative, plausible, and easy to rewax when they get fuzzy–modern Edgecoat looks really, well, modern), and attached mounts until my arm hurt, at which time I handed it over to my lord to finish. The buckle, strap end, purse hanger, and mounts all came from Fettered Cock Pewters. I’m very pleased with the mounts and purse hanger, especially for the price, but pewter is a bit soft for buckles and strap ends, especially since each only has one rivet. Still, you get what you pay for, and FCP is the most affordable source of replica fittings I’ve found. I still need to attach buckle and strap end to my stamped belt a la Museum of London.

I also made a downright hideous tasseled brocade pouch from a remnant someone gave away at fighter practice. It’s handy to have somewhere to shove a wallet, not so handy the way the cords twist up and it bangs against my leg when I walk.

I figured out how to pin my veil pretty nicely (reproduction wimple pins from FCP = also great, but I’m going to order some plain brass reproduction clothing pins from Historic Enterprises for general non-decorative use. I definitely need to make some veils out of silk and lighter-weight linen, and probably a bit larger.

Number one thing I learned: USE WOODEN CORES for cloth buttons (it’s documentable, at least for men, and makes buttoning them much easier. They also look neater).

Pictures when I get around to getting them.

15th century Italian

I’m working on research and patterning for a 15th century Italian gamurra and giornea. Both will be reversible and made from fabric I already have. The hitch is that I want my gamurra to be red, not screaming salmon pink, and I’m not tackling home dyeing until after Christmas. But it should help clean out my stash, and be less of a PITA than the cotehardie (no cloth buttons!). I should have some time to work on this before spring semester starts.

Goal: Done by Caer Galen A&S, January 27

Anglo-Saxon

Ordered some dirt cheap cadet blue linen for the under tunic. Took measurements for the overtunic to be made from embroidered wool (!) tablecloth. Low-priority project.

Elizabethan caul

Since I have a farthingale, underskirt with forepart, and overskirt (and material to make new sleeves) for my Elizabethan doublet, I really need a fancier piece of headwear (not counting my disatisfactory first attempt at a tall hat). I started a caul out of dark blue cotton (horror!) leftover from the underskirt. I laid non-metallic gold soutache down in a grid pattern over it and tacked the intersections down with glass pearls. Now I’m sewing down spangles in every other square. Then I just need to decorate and attach the band. It’s much, much slower than I expected and makes my fingers and back hurt, but it will be insanely ostentatious and probably the simplest piece of headwear I can get away with to go with that dress.

If my lord weren’t planning on making a doublet out of the remaining fabric (I begged enough for the overskirt), I’d consider making a low-necked doublet or gown bodice to wear with the overskirt because I’m itching to embroider a partlet, but honestly, I don’t like the fabric that much–it was given to us and it isn’t totally inappropriate, but it’s a little rubberized and the pattern is off. I should just put my energies into a properly cut Elizabethan gown, if I ever get around to making a corset. Although given my figure, it might be easier and more comfortable to just lightly bone and interline my bodices and doublets.

Might try to put together some paned sleeves before Saturday….

New name

I’ve decided to change from 14th century Mongol to 14th/16th century (depending on my mood) Spanish, on account of accidentally falling in love with European clothing, and also because I’m so compulsive about authenticity with the Mongol stuff I don’t get around to making it. Someday I will. But I think Spanish is more appropriate, given the majority of my SCA interests.

Makes me glad I never got around to submitting a name and device.