Review: Calligraphy Alphabets Made Easy, by Margaret Shepherd Sunday, Oct 19 2008 

This is not a straightforward review–I am reviewing this book strictly in terms of its usefulness as a reference for historical calligraphers. It’s set up for you to work through with an alphabet every day and a project a week, but I’m ignoring that and looking at it solely as an alphabet modelbook.

Calligraphy Alphabets Made Easy
Margaret Shepherd
Penguin, 1986, 112 pp.

This book provides little specific instruction for the individual alphabets, so I would not recommend it for a beginner. Of the 365 alphabets, most are modern or whimsical, but some are historical, historically based, or suitable as faux or pseudoscripts for SCA purposes (faux Chinese, faux Arabic, etc.).

Roman – A straightforward Roman capital hand.
Celtic Any Case – Based on Uncial, but not very historical; I wouldn’t use it.
Namor – Roman mirror writing.
Lower Kingdom – A nice faux Chinese script.
Coiltic – “A fanciful modern invented style, based on 8th-century coiled Celtic.” I don’t know enough about Celtic to comment on this, but it might be a good starting point.
Swash Capitals – Simple swash capitals suitable for use with Italic hands.
Split Swash – Wouldn’t be out of place for the Renaissance.
Basic Gothic – A fairly generic Gothic hand; not glaringly modern, but there are better ones.
Super Celtic – Stretched letters for filling the ends of lines. “Many of these letters come from the Book of Kells.”
Vivaldi – Decorative Italic-based capitals; not historical but would work as capitals with an historical Italic hand.
Swash Italic – A simple swash hand, not extremely historical but a good starting point.
Backward Italic – A back-slanting Italic hand “based on a 16th-century Italian style by Tagliente.”
Turned Celtic – A more historical Uncial-inspired hand.
Arched Italic – Looks a bit like a cross between Batarde and Italic; not historical to my knowledge but looks like something Renaissance calligraphers might have played with.
Caroling – VERY loosely based on Caroline Minuscule; please don’t use this.
Lag B’omer – A faux Hebew script
Jerusalem – A more obviously English faux Hebrew script.
Fraktur – A 16th century German Gothic hand.
Fraktur Capitals – For use with Fraktur.
Concave Gothic and Concave Scroll – A generic modern Gothic hand.
Half-Round Gothic – Somewhat similar to Early Gothic.
Rustica – “A 5th-century rendition of a 1st-century Roman.”
Split Swash – A nice swash capital alphabet for a split pen.
Gothic Caps – Generic Gothic capitals.
Endless – Capital letters made up of continuous lines. Not historical, but would work as a substitute for simple cadels or Italic swash capitals.
Dürer Caps – “Copies of 15th-century German woodcuts.”
Antiquarr – “A 16th-century design by Ludovico Arrighi.” Lowercase, missing j, v, and w.
Magdalene – Capitals “adapted from a 15th-century copy book.”
Frills – “16th-century capitals by Arrighi.” Simple cadels, no j, u, or w.
Florentine – “16th-century Italian style” with decorative descenders.
Russian – A faux Cyrillic hand, but based on modern Russian–not very similar to historical Cyrillic hands.
Delhight – A faux Sanskrit hand.
Upper Kingdom – Another faux Chinese hand. Some of the letters are real Chinese characters or partial ones, so I would be careful using this.
Shivered – A very decorative Gothic hand–similar to some in 16th century modelbook Mira Calligraphiae Monumenta.
Twinings – A generic Gothic hand with a variety of suggested decorative ascenders, some period, some not. Use with care.
Benedictus – “14th-century letters” with decorative ascenders.
Versals – Simple initial letters.
Gothic Initials – A not very exciting set of generic Gothic capitals.
Embellished Gothic – “Some of these ornaments came from medieval manuscripts; others are modern inventions.” A nice hand.

Please note that these assessments are all mine, and I’m not extremely familiar with all the Gothic hands. Overall, however, I think this book has enough historical or near-historical hands to be useful for the SCA calligrapher, and Lower Kingdom and Upper Kingdom are the best faux Chinese scripts I’ve seen so far.

I have a problem staying focused… Wednesday, Jul 2 2008 

I’ve spent the last three weeks in the field, not sewing, and now the summer camping event season is upon me, so the loose kirtle and gown has been temporarily shelved in favor of mending and clothing I can wear camping without passing out from heat exhaustion or requiring dry cleaning.

I just finished (well, except for four eyelets and two cuffs) a boned Tudor kirtle made from the $5/yard purple linen (yes, I actually used fabric for the originally planned project!). The brilliant Lady Sasha fitted me for it, and it fits absolutely perfectly and is totally comfortable. The only problem is my fault, and that was sewing the skirt on slightly too low. However, this will mostly be worn as a foundation garment except while camping, and I’m not really worried about it.

This project has been a record for me in terms of speed, probably because a) I didn’t have to do much handsewing and b) the 14th century kirtle/cote project and my various headwear projects made my handsewing a lot better and faster. That and I’m actually getting better at sewing (see previous post, ha).

Anyway, now that I have a foundation garment, I can get someone to refit my doublet/bodice pattern and I can actually start working on many of the other projects I have planned. I think the Spanish jerkin and an Elizabethan jacket are at the top of the list. And when I get tired of 16th century, I need to get Sasha to refit my kirtle/cotehardie pattern.

Tomorrow I am off to Glory War, and then I will be back and have to do work work again. But I think I should be able to keep picking away at projects before Baron’s War.

And yes, still need to post project pictures. I will have to get my lord Melchior to take pictures this weekend.

Historical Sewing Books: Medieval versus Tudor Tailors Wednesday, Jul 2 2008 

I have pretty much gone from Not Sewing to being fairly decent in the last year. This is almost 100% due to The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant. The reason I love it is because it has very, very clear instructions for drafting a body block, sleeves, and hose, and it gives detailed instructions with every garment on a) how to modify the block appropriately and b) how the garment should fit. Thus far, we have used the instructions to fit me for a kirtle/cote (including sleeves, which aren’t 100% perfect in the wrist/hand region–they were supposed to have mitten cuffs and I had to end them at the wrists–but which are close-fitting and comfortable enough for archery) and F. for a pair of footed hosen (we had some trouble with the feet, but I think that’s inevitable). I also just used the sleeve instructions (which are BRILLIANT) to draft a straight sleeve for my Tudor kirtle.

It’s not a totally comprehensive or perfect book when it comes to medieval clothing–I wish it went far enough back for bliauts, covered other cote construction methods, and went into a crapload more detail on headwear, especially fitting hoods (which still defeats me), but it’s a really, really good basic introduction to drafting and fitting your own patterns.

So, when The Tudor Tailor came out I was really excited. I’m a fan of Ninya Mikhaila, and I was hoping for something similar for 16th century clothing. Unfortunately, not only does it not really discuss fitting very much, much less provide fantastic instructions on how to draft the patterns from a body block, but it doesn’t even tell you much about how the clothing should fit most of the time. Plus a lot of the garments are patterned very oddly when compared to the extant garments they’re based on–this is particularly evident with the loose gown.

I look at The Tudor Tailor a lot for inspiration, and it does have some good technique discussions, but I find it a lot more frustrating–it would almost be easier for me to work from Janet Arnold in some cases (okay, it definitely is).

I really hope the Renaissance Tailor book materializes one of these days, because I think her approach is much closer to that of Medieval Tailor, and the body block approach to sewing works well for me.

Loose kirtle update… Wednesday, May 14 2008 

I am still working away on the loose kirtle and gown. So far on the kirtle I have

  • Assembled the kirtle with brocade facing and mostly finished the seams.
  • Bound the neckline with ribbon.
  • Started sewing lacing rings on.

I still need to

  • Hem it.
  • Bind the armscyes and front bottom with ribbon.
  • Add eyelets to the armscyes.
  • Finish sewing lacing rings on.
  • Pattern and assemble the sleeves.
  • Add eyelets to the sleeves.

The loose gown should go together faster, since it won’t involve as much handwork. Once I have the kirtle almost together, I’ll start working on the gown again. I’m still deciding what kind of sleeves to use.

I want to make a brocade flat cap and caul and a red velveteen Italian bonnet so I have some headwear choices for it. But that comes later….

Post-mortem inventory of the goods of John Edolf 1576 Friday, May 9 2008 

I found this in, of all things, a book on Elizabethan handwriting and paleography (WHICH IS AWESOME AND I WANT TO LEARN SECRETARY HAND NOW AND I NEED A COPY OF THIS BOOK. But more on that later). It’s an inventory of the worldly goods of a provincial Elizabethan gentleman, presumably of modest means. I don’t know if the book provides the complete inventory–if it does, they’re very modest means, as his hall furniture consists of two square tables, two forms (?), one long settle, two chairs, six cushions, two andirons, a fire fork, a pair of tongs, and “hangings about the same,” which is less than you’d find in a minor noblewoman’s bedchamber. Anyway, I found the clothing inventory (which is complete) particularly interesting:

In Apparrell

Item fower gownes fower dublets one
damask Cassok two paier of hose fower
Shurtes two caps two hatts

In Apparel

Item, four gowns, four doublets, one
damask cassock, two pairs of hose, four
shirts, two caps, and two hats.

Master Edolf was, I’m guessing, a somewhat older and more conservative gentleman, judging by the gowns. The cassock is the only material of a specified fabric, and possibly the richest garment he owned (a damask is a figured woven fabric, probably silk in this case).

The hose must be trunkhose, since by that time period doublets were short enough to require trunkhose or Venetian hose to be worn with them–I couldn’t guess as to whether “two pairs of hose” means trunkhose/netherhose sets, but that seems probable (I’m not that familiar with Elizabethan wardrobe conventions).

I’m not sure about the distinction between caps and hats–I would guess the hats are more structured, e.g. tall hats, and caps are softer, but I could be completely wrong.

Anyway, what I find interesting is that contrary to what people seem to assume now about Elizabethans (and medieval people, for that matter) having more undergarments and fewer outer garments, Master Edolf had essentially four sets of clothing. A “set” as being a shirt, doublet, and gown (I guess he only changed his hose every other day), although the gown is optional. No more garments than undergarments (the cassock is outerwear, like a coat).

I think a thorough analysis of Elizabethan wardrobe accounts could be very, very interesting. I haven’t seen one, but it doesn’t mean none exist….

Original account pictured on p. 57 of
Dawson, G.E., and Kennedy-Skipton, L. Elizabethan Handwriting 1500-1650: A Manual, W.W. Norton & Co. (New York): 1966, 130 pp.

Awesome new loose gown project! Sunday, Apr 13 2008 

I found this amazing red-and-yellow chenille as a remnant at Joann’s. It was $6/yard! But sadly, there was only about 4 yards or so. It is soft and drapes nicely and the pattern is wonderful, not too naturalistic, and just about the right size. I love it like puppies and kittens. It is even more gorgeous in person. Anyway, it said “I want to be a stunning loose gown!” so I pored over Janet Arnold (the German loose gown with the cutaway front), since this time I’m going to pattern it properly instead of cheating and making it A-line like I did last time (which looks more and more wrong to me the more examples I look at of A-line loose gowns versus the on-the-bias ones). I used my new doublet pattern from Sasha as a base.

The yellow with red figures side:

The red with yellow figures side (which I decided to use because the kirtle is gold brocade and I like red, but it was a HARD decision):

Kaylie helping me cut out pieces:

Maia helping me. At least until she started attacking my fabric and I chased her out of the living room.

I will post pictures of kirtle fabric and finished garments later! The loose gown will be trimmed with white fake fur (I am trying to make this a SIMPLE project, so not cutting up and piecing rabbit skins) and closed over the bust with gold clasps (but not all the way down the front, ‘cos that would be expensive). Some of the portraits I’ve looked at do not have closures lower than the bust, even decorative ones, so I feel okay about that.

I’m planning on making a little red velvet Italian bonnet to wear with it…since so much of my fabric stash is red/maroon/burgundy, it should go with a lot of other things.

Ottonian scroll #2! Saturday, Apr 12 2008 

I finished my second AoA scroll, for a specific person I haven’t met. It’s also Ottonian, and while I wasn’t able to figure out what I really wanted to do, it’s more complicated than the last one and I’m pretty happy with it (aside from the fact that I had Poor Planning on the text and I’m crossing my fingers it’ll be approved with such abbreviated text and the Royal signatures at the top instead of the bottom…if not, I’ll redo it). I did better with my color choice this time, although my outlines still need serious work (I think I just haven’t found the perfect brush for outlines yet–it has to carry sufficient paint but not too much, and have a fine point).

I shall post a picture later, after it has been awarded. Photos in bright sunlight are definitely better than scans or color copies, wow. Good thing I live in Colorado.

On other projects, I found an amazing gold and red chenille remnant and I’m working on a kirtle (fronted with Martha Stewart tableclothes I’ve been hoarding forever, haha) and loose gown. It is so. freaking. pretty. And I love loose gowns, because they are comfy, look fine without a corset, and are not fitted much and are thus less stressful to make. Sasha fitted me for a doublet and bodice pattern, and now I need to make a boned kirtle and then go from there.

Linen! And sewing and scrolls Wednesday, Mar 26 2008 

It appears after burning that the mystery dark wine-purple linen or linen blend fabric I picked up on the Joann remnant table for $5/yard a couple weeks ago (I think I got almost 8 yards) is probably 100% linen, and definitely contains nothing melty. It’s got a nice hand, much heavier than the linen/cotton blends I’ve bought before. Anyway, yay for nonmelting! I think I shall use it for a boned kirtle/basic camping dress, and I’ll have a bunch leftover I can use for lining things.

Definitely need to sit down and actually sew, stop buying fabric.

Today I finally got up the nerve to cut out the Anglo-Saxon overtunic pieces from the embroidered wool tablecloth. Whew. I need to wash the linen for the undertunic and cut it out, but it will be nice to do a genuinely quick and easy project. I have some lovely inkle-woven trim I bought to sew on by hand, but I may just do that on the undertunic and use the rest for a belt.

Last weekend I started working on a Dorothea-based pair of bodies. I did the first fitting of a mockup (based on the Reconstructing History pattern, modified to bring it more in line with the original in Janet Arnold) and it’s pretty off in some ways but should be fairly easy to fix. Once I have a pair of bodies, I shall ask a kindly local Laurel to fit me for a doublet and then I can make some serious inway on the fabric stash, I hope! In the meantime, I have a kirtle and cotehardie to put together. This cotehardie will be based on a Spanish painting in Anderson’s Hispanic Clothing, which has the open hanging sleeves like a bliaut. I imagine the sleeves will annoy me to no end, but I want something distinctively Spanish, and I don’t have any plaid in my stash to do the parti-colored plaid cotehardie. :D Someday.

Melchior put up the wire shelves, so I’m (slowly) working on turning the boxes and piles of fabric and craft stuff into something resembling organized. I think some of it will end up free to a good home. Yay for organization, slowly as it comes.

I have a scroll assignment for Kingdom A&S. I’m very excited–it will give me a chance to try some neat Ottonian stuff if I can get it to work. I really need to figure out a Gothic hand, though, since there’s a lot of illumination I really want to do that requires a Gothic hand. Bleh, Gothic.

Calligraphy and illumination class! Monday, Mar 10 2008 

I’m going to take a calligraphy and illumination class in May, which I expect to be fun. Here’s the class description:

Celtic And Historical Calligraphy

During this course you will learn the skills of the masters of European Calligraphy. We’ll cover historical inking colours, their origins and how they are made. Parchments and vellums, various papers, quill types, quill cutting, scripting tables, layout geometry, and related themes will be demonstrated and discussed. Period scripting and styles, including Celtic, Ottonian, Renaissance, and others, will be explained and illustrated. Skill in scripting, design, illustration, and illumination is used in historical reproduction work as well as modern art. The information presented will surprise modern digital graphic ad layout artists, enhancing their knowledge and depth in their own professional fields. Please bring $10 to class for materials.

It’s a two-day workshop taught by Dan Cheatham II, who’s clearly trying to spin it to appeal to modern graphic artists, but his real interests are historical. So more practice making period paints, AND he has genuine lapis and malachite to play with, which will be exciting since there is no freaking way I’m going to buy lapis to grind up myself at the current prices. So this may be my chance to find out how genuine lapis looks and handles differently from synthetic ultramarine.

Dan also teaches a longbow making class, which would really tempt me if I liked shooting longbows, which I don’t. But I am tempted by the leatherwork class, since several people have suggested tooling as an alternative to stamping for the Gothic-lettered motto belts I want to make from Dress Accessories, and Melchior and his boss don’t do tooling at work on account of things like profit margins. So getting some instruction in that might be a good idea. I’ll have to see how finances and time go.

There’s a baronial corset workshop coming up, so I need to do a mockup fitted as far as I can get without help on the modified Dorothea bodies.

Not as far along as I’d hoped Monday, Feb 11 2008 

Revised plan:

  • Coif – Finished and FANTASTIC. It stays on far more easily than a caul, even given how short my hair is. No bobby pins necessary!
  • Purple/brown velvet skirt – Still half pinned, will finish…later.
  • Green velveteen square doublet – Now has majority of trim and all pieces cut out (but lining needs to be cut down since we refitted the shoulders). Plan is to do set-in sleeves for speed, but later take apart and add epaulets and buttonhole strips and converting the sleeves to button-on.
  • Partlet – Need to make. This will be a SIMPLE gathered partlet to match my coif.
  • Caul – Need to make at least 1 for me and 1 for Lucretzia, more if I can (unlikely). But I can always cut them all out and take them to handsew in the car–they don’t take too long by hand.

Things that are being put off until after Estrella:

  • Brown wool skirt
  • Flannel petticoats
  • Decorating the flat cap – It’s wearable as is.

I’m going to have to do some SERIOUS sewing tomorrow to get the square doublet done. But it’s theoretically possible. I need to get back into my focus-on-one-project-at-a-time groove that I had last summer.

Today I found some amazing “blackworked” sheer fabric. It’s synthetic, but not obviously to the eye, and the machine blackwork is dense and not too out-of-period looking. I’m planning on making a set of detachable sleeves, a partlet, and a caul out of it at some point.

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