Review: Calligraphy Alphabets Made Easy, by Margaret Shepherd Sunday, Oct 19 2008 

This is not a straightforward review–I am reviewing this book strictly in terms of its usefulness as a reference for historical calligraphers. It’s set up for you to work through with an alphabet every day and a project a week, but I’m ignoring that and looking at it solely as an alphabet modelbook.

Calligraphy Alphabets Made Easy
Margaret Shepherd
Penguin, 1986, 112 pp.

This book provides little specific instruction for the individual alphabets, so I would not recommend it for a beginner. Of the 365 alphabets, most are modern or whimsical, but some are historical, historically based, or suitable as faux or pseudoscripts for SCA purposes (faux Chinese, faux Arabic, etc.).

Roman – A straightforward Roman capital hand.
Celtic Any Case – Based on Uncial, but not very historical; I wouldn’t use it.
Namor – Roman mirror writing.
Lower Kingdom – A nice faux Chinese script.
Coiltic – “A fanciful modern invented style, based on 8th-century coiled Celtic.” I don’t know enough about Celtic to comment on this, but it might be a good starting point.
Swash Capitals – Simple swash capitals suitable for use with Italic hands.
Split Swash – Wouldn’t be out of place for the Renaissance.
Basic Gothic – A fairly generic Gothic hand; not glaringly modern, but there are better ones.
Super Celtic – Stretched letters for filling the ends of lines. “Many of these letters come from the Book of Kells.”
Vivaldi – Decorative Italic-based capitals; not historical but would work as capitals with an historical Italic hand.
Swash Italic – A simple swash hand, not extremely historical but a good starting point.
Backward Italic – A back-slanting Italic hand “based on a 16th-century Italian style by Tagliente.”
Turned Celtic – A more historical Uncial-inspired hand.
Arched Italic – Looks a bit like a cross between Batarde and Italic; not historical to my knowledge but looks like something Renaissance calligraphers might have played with.
Caroling – VERY loosely based on Caroline Minuscule; please don’t use this.
Lag B’omer – A faux Hebew script
Jerusalem – A more obviously English faux Hebrew script.
Fraktur – A 16th century German Gothic hand.
Fraktur Capitals – For use with Fraktur.
Concave Gothic and Concave Scroll – A generic modern Gothic hand.
Half-Round Gothic – Somewhat similar to Early Gothic.
Rustica – “A 5th-century rendition of a 1st-century Roman.”
Split Swash – A nice swash capital alphabet for a split pen.
Gothic Caps – Generic Gothic capitals.
Endless – Capital letters made up of continuous lines. Not historical, but would work as a substitute for simple cadels or Italic swash capitals.
Dürer Caps – “Copies of 15th-century German woodcuts.”
Antiquarr – “A 16th-century design by Ludovico Arrighi.” Lowercase, missing j, v, and w.
Magdalene – Capitals “adapted from a 15th-century copy book.”
Frills – “16th-century capitals by Arrighi.” Simple cadels, no j, u, or w.
Florentine – “16th-century Italian style” with decorative descenders.
Russian – A faux Cyrillic hand, but based on modern Russian–not very similar to historical Cyrillic hands.
Delhight – A faux Sanskrit hand.
Upper Kingdom – Another faux Chinese hand. Some of the letters are real Chinese characters or partial ones, so I would be careful using this.
Shivered – A very decorative Gothic hand–similar to some in 16th century modelbook Mira Calligraphiae Monumenta.
Twinings – A generic Gothic hand with a variety of suggested decorative ascenders, some period, some not. Use with care.
Benedictus – “14th-century letters” with decorative ascenders.
Versals – Simple initial letters.
Gothic Initials – A not very exciting set of generic Gothic capitals.
Embellished Gothic – “Some of these ornaments came from medieval manuscripts; others are modern inventions.” A nice hand.

Please note that these assessments are all mine, and I’m not extremely familiar with all the Gothic hands. Overall, however, I think this book has enough historical or near-historical hands to be useful for the SCA calligrapher, and Lower Kingdom and Upper Kingdom are the best faux Chinese scripts I’ve seen so far.

Historical Sewing Books: Medieval versus Tudor Tailors Wednesday, Jul 2 2008 

I have pretty much gone from Not Sewing to being fairly decent in the last year. This is almost 100% due to The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant. The reason I love it is because it has very, very clear instructions for drafting a body block, sleeves, and hose, and it gives detailed instructions with every garment on a) how to modify the block appropriately and b) how the garment should fit. Thus far, we have used the instructions to fit me for a kirtle/cote (including sleeves, which aren’t 100% perfect in the wrist/hand region–they were supposed to have mitten cuffs and I had to end them at the wrists–but which are close-fitting and comfortable enough for archery) and F. for a pair of footed hosen (we had some trouble with the feet, but I think that’s inevitable). I also just used the sleeve instructions (which are BRILLIANT) to draft a straight sleeve for my Tudor kirtle.

It’s not a totally comprehensive or perfect book when it comes to medieval clothing–I wish it went far enough back for bliauts, covered other cote construction methods, and went into a crapload more detail on headwear, especially fitting hoods (which still defeats me), but it’s a really, really good basic introduction to drafting and fitting your own patterns.

So, when The Tudor Tailor came out I was really excited. I’m a fan of Ninya Mikhaila, and I was hoping for something similar for 16th century clothing. Unfortunately, not only does it not really discuss fitting very much, much less provide fantastic instructions on how to draft the patterns from a body block, but it doesn’t even tell you much about how the clothing should fit most of the time. Plus a lot of the garments are patterned very oddly when compared to the extant garments they’re based on–this is particularly evident with the loose gown.

I look at The Tudor Tailor a lot for inspiration, and it does have some good technique discussions, but I find it a lot more frustrating–it would almost be easier for me to work from Janet Arnold in some cases (okay, it definitely is).

I really hope the Renaissance Tailor book materializes one of these days, because I think her approach is much closer to that of Medieval Tailor, and the body block approach to sewing works well for me.

Post-mortem inventory of the goods of John Edolf 1576 Friday, May 9 2008 

I found this in, of all things, a book on Elizabethan handwriting and paleography (WHICH IS AWESOME AND I WANT TO LEARN SECRETARY HAND NOW AND I NEED A COPY OF THIS BOOK. But more on that later). It’s an inventory of the worldly goods of a provincial Elizabethan gentleman, presumably of modest means. I don’t know if the book provides the complete inventory–if it does, they’re very modest means, as his hall furniture consists of two square tables, two forms (?), one long settle, two chairs, six cushions, two andirons, a fire fork, a pair of tongs, and “hangings about the same,” which is less than you’d find in a minor noblewoman’s bedchamber. Anyway, I found the clothing inventory (which is complete) particularly interesting:

In Apparrell

Item fower gownes fower dublets one
damask Cassok two paier of hose fower
Shurtes two caps two hatts

In Apparel

Item, four gowns, four doublets, one
damask cassock, two pairs of hose, four
shirts, two caps, and two hats.

Master Edolf was, I’m guessing, a somewhat older and more conservative gentleman, judging by the gowns. The cassock is the only material of a specified fabric, and possibly the richest garment he owned (a damask is a figured woven fabric, probably silk in this case).

The hose must be trunkhose, since by that time period doublets were short enough to require trunkhose or Venetian hose to be worn with them–I couldn’t guess as to whether “two pairs of hose” means trunkhose/netherhose sets, but that seems probable (I’m not that familiar with Elizabethan wardrobe conventions).

I’m not sure about the distinction between caps and hats–I would guess the hats are more structured, e.g. tall hats, and caps are softer, but I could be completely wrong.

Anyway, what I find interesting is that contrary to what people seem to assume now about Elizabethans (and medieval people, for that matter) having more undergarments and fewer outer garments, Master Edolf had essentially four sets of clothing. A “set” as being a shirt, doublet, and gown (I guess he only changed his hose every other day), although the gown is optional. No more garments than undergarments (the cassock is outerwear, like a coat).

I think a thorough analysis of Elizabethan wardrobe accounts could be very, very interesting. I haven’t seen one, but it doesn’t mean none exist….

Original account pictured on p. 57 of
Dawson, G.E., and Kennedy-Skipton, L. Elizabethan Handwriting 1500-1650: A Manual, W.W. Norton & Co. (New York): 1966, 130 pp.

Linen! And sewing and scrolls Wednesday, Mar 26 2008 

It appears after burning that the mystery dark wine-purple linen or linen blend fabric I picked up on the Joann remnant table for $5/yard a couple weeks ago (I think I got almost 8 yards) is probably 100% linen, and definitely contains nothing melty. It’s got a nice hand, much heavier than the linen/cotton blends I’ve bought before. Anyway, yay for nonmelting! I think I shall use it for a boned kirtle/basic camping dress, and I’ll have a bunch leftover I can use for lining things.

Definitely need to sit down and actually sew, stop buying fabric.

Today I finally got up the nerve to cut out the Anglo-Saxon overtunic pieces from the embroidered wool tablecloth. Whew. I need to wash the linen for the undertunic and cut it out, but it will be nice to do a genuinely quick and easy project. I have some lovely inkle-woven trim I bought to sew on by hand, but I may just do that on the undertunic and use the rest for a belt.

Last weekend I started working on a Dorothea-based pair of bodies. I did the first fitting of a mockup (based on the Reconstructing History pattern, modified to bring it more in line with the original in Janet Arnold) and it’s pretty off in some ways but should be fairly easy to fix. Once I have a pair of bodies, I shall ask a kindly local Laurel to fit me for a doublet and then I can make some serious inway on the fabric stash, I hope! In the meantime, I have a kirtle and cotehardie to put together. This cotehardie will be based on a Spanish painting in Anderson’s Hispanic Clothing, which has the open hanging sleeves like a bliaut. I imagine the sleeves will annoy me to no end, but I want something distinctively Spanish, and I don’t have any plaid in my stash to do the parti-colored plaid cotehardie. :D Someday.

Melchior put up the wire shelves, so I’m (slowly) working on turning the boxes and piles of fabric and craft stuff into something resembling organized. I think some of it will end up free to a good home. Yay for organization, slowly as it comes.

I have a scroll assignment for Kingdom A&S. I’m very excited–it will give me a chance to try some neat Ottonian stuff if I can get it to work. I really need to figure out a Gothic hand, though, since there’s a lot of illumination I really want to do that requires a Gothic hand. Bleh, Gothic.

Not as far along as I’d hoped Monday, Feb 11 2008 

Revised plan:

  • Coif – Finished and FANTASTIC. It stays on far more easily than a caul, even given how short my hair is. No bobby pins necessary!
  • Purple/brown velvet skirt – Still half pinned, will finish…later.
  • Green velveteen square doublet – Now has majority of trim and all pieces cut out (but lining needs to be cut down since we refitted the shoulders). Plan is to do set-in sleeves for speed, but later take apart and add epaulets and buttonhole strips and converting the sleeves to button-on.
  • Partlet – Need to make. This will be a SIMPLE gathered partlet to match my coif.
  • Caul – Need to make at least 1 for me and 1 for Lucretzia, more if I can (unlikely). But I can always cut them all out and take them to handsew in the car–they don’t take too long by hand.

Things that are being put off until after Estrella:

  • Brown wool skirt
  • Flannel petticoats
  • Decorating the flat cap – It’s wearable as is.

I’m going to have to do some SERIOUS sewing tomorrow to get the square doublet done. But it’s theoretically possible. I need to get back into my focus-on-one-project-at-a-time groove that I had last summer.

Today I found some amazing “blackworked” sheer fabric. It’s synthetic, but not obviously to the eye, and the machine blackwork is dense and not too out-of-period looking. I’m planning on making a set of detachable sleeves, a partlet, and a caul out of it at some point.

The weekend of sewing Sunday, Feb 10 2008 

As of Saturday evening:

  • Coif – This was a spur of the moment project with some machine-embroidered linen. I sewed spangles on it and lined it with purple linen. There’s too much white space for Elizabethan sensibilities, but it’s not awful, and I’m excited I finally figured out a working coif pattern. I still need to sew the trim I found with loops on for a drawstring (cheating, I know).
  • Flat hat – Most of today (after staying up until 2:00 last night with the coif) I spent drafting a pattern for a new, more period flat hat according to Sempstress. I am very happy with the shape! The construction method is not my favorite, though–the bias tape was fiddly and I don’t like the finish, so next time around I will try this pattern with the old method for a lined flat cap. Anyway, I made it out of the tan wool and all it needs is a hatband and feather. I have a nice metal button to sew on as well with an arabesque design.
  • Purple/brown velvet skirt – Still half pinned, will finish tomorrow.
  • Brown wool skirt – Still half pinned, will attempt to put guards on and finish tomorrow.
  • Flannel petticoats – Tomorrow
  • Green velveteen doublet – Maybe try to finish tomorrow (doubt I’ll have time)
  • Cauls (2 for me, 1 or 2 for Lucretzia) – I figure I’ll just assembly-line them Monday evening. I definitely want some cauls that aren’t as fancy as my beaded one, which looks out of place with my next wool flat cap.

As always, my overly ambitious plans change! Friday, Feb 1 2008 

A&S report for January 2008:

I fear I did not ply my Needle so industr’ously as I had hoped this month:

Item, a brodered slip of Aquilegia (columbine) for a Cushonne (I have yet three more slips to complete, though I find I know not yet which other flowers most please me, for there are so many most fair!).
Item, a payre of Gartyres brodered with blakwoorke for my lord (I have a few more Snailles yet to complete).

And with m’lady Laura I did teach a class on Buttons wrapt with sylke for the arts and sciences Collegium of our fair Barony of Caer Galen, which was attended well. I continue to strive to better my correspondence, and am most grateful for the assistance of my dear cousins in this matter.

My ambitious Estrella plans have changed. I’m not trying to get shoes done, although I might still try for the Anglo-Saxon. But I want a wool skirt, some petticoats, and possibly a wool doublet. The problem is that I only have about 1.5 yards of my lovely tan camelhair/cashmere, and the nice brown wool Joann’s had a few months ago is gone gone gone. So my options are to make a doublet of the camelhair and a skirt of something else, or go to Denver Fabrics this weekend and see if I can find 4 yards of something appropriate on the remnant table. I want to do some really nice black cording on the doublet and guarding on the skirt, which probably makes this a really bad pre-Estrella project. It’s not like I don’t have plenty of real-life stuff to do (and I have a cold, blech).

It would be good if I could get the cuffs onto my gloves, too. We’ll see, I guess!

To post about Wednesday, Jan 23 2008 

-Amazing exhibit of 16th to 19th century prints I saw last week.
-16th century herbals.
-My columbine slip progress and the things I’ve learned in the process so far.

I need to put together a handout for A&S this weekend. I’m not trying to finish the Italian Ren by then, because I decided I’d rather work on something I enjoy right now (the slip) than something I don’t (sewing). Afterwards I’ll try to put together some shoes and a simple Anglo-Saxon for Estrella, probably. I hope to have the slip done by the end of the month. Then I still need to decide what to do for the other three and pick out some insects for filler (butterfly, caterpillar, dragonfly, bee, probably).

I found 4 yards of an amazing red/gold shot silk dupioni (45″ wide) on the remnants table at Joann’s today for only $5/yard. I have no idea what I’ll do with it–it’s really lightweight, so probably an interlining to show through slashes–but it’s gorgeous, and how often does one find $5/yard shot silk dupioni in fabulous colors?

Correcting your tailor’s faults Wednesday, Jan 2 2008 

If a Tailour make your gowne too little, you cover his fault with a broad stomacher, if too great, with a number of plights, if too short, with a faire garde, if too long, with a false gathering, my trust is you will deale in the like manner with Euphues, that if he have not fead your humour, yet you will excuse him more then the Tailour: for could Euphues take the measure of a womans minde, as the Tailour doth of hir bodie, hee would go as neere to fit them for a fancie, as the other doth for a fashion.

-John Lyly, introduction to Eupheus and his England (1580)

The novel in original spelling here.

I am a sick, sick puppy Wednesday, Jan 2 2008 

I was reading through the Compendium of Common Knowledge today in my quest to improve my persona (okay, my persona is Spanish, but that’s a lot harder to find information on, and I was fostered in England as an excuse–I fear my persona backstory may become too “…and that’s why I’m a gypsy/ninja/pirate!”) and came across a mention that Chaucer was popular.

I have been slowly picking my way through The Canterbury Tales in facing translation off-and-on for a few years (reading aloud to try to figure out Middle English pronunciation, which is part of why it’s so slow). But my cheap paperback is, well, a cheap modern paperback.

And I recently found a fantastic set of Elizabethan type fonts by Jeff Lee, JSL Ancient.

And I’ve been wanting to learn bookbinding.

It would be completely, utterly insane to put together a periodesque volume of The Canterbury Tales with woodcut-style illustrations, right? (But also really awesome, too.) I mean, I wouldn’t just be able to go through an etext and put it into JSL Ancient–I’d have to replace the s’s and other kernings (thank goodness for search and replace?). And do the illustrations.

I thought so. Totally insane.

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