Review: Calligraphy Alphabets Made Easy, by Margaret Shepherd Sunday, Oct 19 2008 

This is not a straightforward review–I am reviewing this book strictly in terms of its usefulness as a reference for historical calligraphers. It’s set up for you to work through with an alphabet every day and a project a week, but I’m ignoring that and looking at it solely as an alphabet modelbook.

Calligraphy Alphabets Made Easy
Margaret Shepherd
Penguin, 1986, 112 pp.

This book provides little specific instruction for the individual alphabets, so I would not recommend it for a beginner. Of the 365 alphabets, most are modern or whimsical, but some are historical, historically based, or suitable as faux or pseudoscripts for SCA purposes (faux Chinese, faux Arabic, etc.).

Roman – A straightforward Roman capital hand.
Celtic Any Case – Based on Uncial, but not very historical; I wouldn’t use it.
Namor – Roman mirror writing.
Lower Kingdom – A nice faux Chinese script.
Coiltic – “A fanciful modern invented style, based on 8th-century coiled Celtic.” I don’t know enough about Celtic to comment on this, but it might be a good starting point.
Swash Capitals – Simple swash capitals suitable for use with Italic hands.
Split Swash – Wouldn’t be out of place for the Renaissance.
Basic Gothic – A fairly generic Gothic hand; not glaringly modern, but there are better ones.
Super Celtic – Stretched letters for filling the ends of lines. “Many of these letters come from the Book of Kells.”
Vivaldi – Decorative Italic-based capitals; not historical but would work as capitals with an historical Italic hand.
Swash Italic – A simple swash hand, not extremely historical but a good starting point.
Backward Italic – A back-slanting Italic hand “based on a 16th-century Italian style by Tagliente.”
Turned Celtic – A more historical Uncial-inspired hand.
Arched Italic – Looks a bit like a cross between Batarde and Italic; not historical to my knowledge but looks like something Renaissance calligraphers might have played with.
Caroling – VERY loosely based on Caroline Minuscule; please don’t use this.
Lag B’omer – A faux Hebew script
Jerusalem – A more obviously English faux Hebrew script.
Fraktur – A 16th century German Gothic hand.
Fraktur Capitals – For use with Fraktur.
Concave Gothic and Concave Scroll – A generic modern Gothic hand.
Half-Round Gothic – Somewhat similar to Early Gothic.
Rustica – “A 5th-century rendition of a 1st-century Roman.”
Split Swash – A nice swash capital alphabet for a split pen.
Gothic Caps – Generic Gothic capitals.
Endless – Capital letters made up of continuous lines. Not historical, but would work as a substitute for simple cadels or Italic swash capitals.
Dürer Caps – “Copies of 15th-century German woodcuts.”
Antiquarr – “A 16th-century design by Ludovico Arrighi.” Lowercase, missing j, v, and w.
Magdalene – Capitals “adapted from a 15th-century copy book.”
Frills – “16th-century capitals by Arrighi.” Simple cadels, no j, u, or w.
Florentine – “16th-century Italian style” with decorative descenders.
Russian – A faux Cyrillic hand, but based on modern Russian–not very similar to historical Cyrillic hands.
Delhight – A faux Sanskrit hand.
Upper Kingdom – Another faux Chinese hand. Some of the letters are real Chinese characters or partial ones, so I would be careful using this.
Shivered – A very decorative Gothic hand–similar to some in 16th century modelbook Mira Calligraphiae Monumenta.
Twinings – A generic Gothic hand with a variety of suggested decorative ascenders, some period, some not. Use with care.
Benedictus – “14th-century letters” with decorative ascenders.
Versals – Simple initial letters.
Gothic Initials – A not very exciting set of generic Gothic capitals.
Embellished Gothic – “Some of these ornaments came from medieval manuscripts; others are modern inventions.” A nice hand.

Please note that these assessments are all mine, and I’m not extremely familiar with all the Gothic hands. Overall, however, I think this book has enough historical or near-historical hands to be useful for the SCA calligrapher, and Lower Kingdom and Upper Kingdom are the best faux Chinese scripts I’ve seen so far.

A Basic Historical Calligraphy and Illumination Library Wednesday, May 14 2008 

Calligraphy (from Greek κάλλος kallos “beauty” + γραφή graphẽ “writing”): The art of writing.

Illumination: Decorations for text, in the strictest definition, gold or silver. These may include decorated letters, margins, miniature paintings, etc.

These are the books I have found most useful for historical calligraphic hands, quill-cutting, information on leafing and historical materials, etc. I haven’t yet found a really good how-to for historical illumination–recommendations welcome.

Harris, David. The Art of Calligraphy: a practical guide to the skills and techniques. Dorling Kindersley: New York (1995), 128 pp.

Includes how to cut quill and reed pens, script timeline, script reference chart, historical background, and instructions for the following hands:

Rustic Capitals (Roman Rustic), Square Capitals, Imperial Capitals (Roman), Uncial, Artifical Uncial (Late Uncial), Insular Majuscule, Insular Minuscule, Caroline Minuscule (Carolingian), Foundational (a post-Renaissance), Early Gothic (Late Carolingian, Carolingian Gothic), Gothic Textura Quadrata, Gothic Textura Prescisus, Gothic Capitals and Versals, Lombardic Capitals, Bastard Secretary (Elizabethan Secretary), Bâtarde, Fraktur, Schwabacher, Bastard Capitals, Cadels, Rotunda, Rotunda Capitals, Humanist Minuscule, Italic, Humanist and Italic Capitals, Italic Swash Capitals, Copperplate and Copperplate Capitals (post-Renaissance)

The two weaknesses of the book are 1) It does not discuss inks, and 2) it presents Secretary as a semi-formal bookhand, and does not show any examples of the commonly used Secretary script used by the Elizabethans for everyday writing, such as letters. Most surviving examples of Secretary are considerably less formal and consistent than bookhands.

This is a fantastic book and I would recommend it over Drogin’s Medieval Calligraphy for the beginner. It also has the advantage in presenting Renaissance hands, and in being full-color, so the numerous examples of manuscripts are easier to read and more inspirational.

Drogin, Marc. Medieval Calligraphy. Dover: New York (1980), 198 pp.

This is the classic reference text for medieval calligraphy. It presents all of the major medieval hands, along with historical background and some minimal discussion of technique and materials. It is in black-and-white, so doesn’t really inspire illumination, but presents a variety of examples of the hands so the reader can see the historical variance. The hands covered are:

Roman Rustic (Rustic Capitals), Uncial, Artificial Uncial (Late Uncial), Roman Half-Uncial, Insular Majuscule, Insular Minuscule, Luxeuil Minuscule, Carolingian Minuscule (Caroline), Early Gothic, Gothic Textura Quadrata, Gothic Textura Prescisus, Gothic Littera Bastarda and Cadels

I find Drogin’s lettering diagrams less easy to follow than Harris’s, and it isn’t always clear when letter forms are modernized. I also strongly disagree with some of his comments on materials, particularly the recommendation of fountain pens, although I agree that quills are difficult to use and can be very frustrating and off-putting for beginners (if I couldn’t use a metal-nibbed dip pen, I would be very frustrated right now). Drogin does not cover Cadels as extensively as Harris.

Overall, while Drogin covers fewer hands than Harris, he does so in more depth. The hands are also presented differently. For example, Drogin’s Bastarda does not involve pen rotations (which can be tricky), while Harris’s does. I recommend both books strongly, as they complement each other well.

Johnston, Edward. Writing & Illuminating & Lettering. Pittman: London (1977).

Johnston was first published in 1906, and it’s pretty dense and sometimes hard to follow, but it’s an invaluable resource. It discusses working surface, quill and reed cutting, letter and line spacing, practicing, rubrication, gold, illumination, and just about everything else, and includes numerous black-and-white illustrations. Although some colors and techniques described are post-Renaissance, much is not.

Dawson, Giles E., and Kennedy-Skipton, Laetitia. Elizabethan Handwriting, 1500-1650: A Manual. W.W. Norton: New York (1966), 130 pp.

This is the only book I’ve found so far that really focuses on everyday writing rather than more formal book- or courthands. It focuses primarily upon the Elizabethan Secretary hand, a bastard script, although it also includes some examples of italic cursive (used primarily by women until 1600 or so, but which replaced Secretary in the 17th century) and a few legal and court hands.

The book includes discussion of Elizabethan spelling and the evolution of the Secretary hand, as well as numerous examples of 16th and 17th century handwritten documents with transcriptions, including several plates from various penmanship books. The handwritings presented vary wildly in formality.

It does NOT include any instructions on the hands themselves. However, between the plates from penmanship books and the instructions for Bastard Secretary in Harris, I imagine one could develop one’s own version of Secretary. There is a lot of latitude for variation.

Cennini, Cennino D’Andrea. Il Libro dell’ Arte (The Craftsman’s Handbook). Trans. Daniel V. Thompson Dover: New York (1933), 142 pp.

Probably written in the 14th century, this is an amazing primary source on Renaissance painting. Although much of it deals specifically with fresco painting, Cennini also discusses pigments, brushes, drawing with silverpoint, drawing on cloth, and many other topics. For instructions of preparing period pigments, it’s hard to beat Cennini. This English translation divides the text into useful sections, including “On the character of ultramarine blue, and how to make it” and “How to paint a dead man.”

The full text is available free online.

Thompson, Daniel V. The Materials and Techniques of Medieval Painting. Dover: New York (1956), 239 pp. (Originally published 1936).

Thompson’s thoroughly researched book covers topics like binding media, gesso, size, oils, pigments, and application of metals in detail. It is an excellent complement to Cennini.

Morgan, Margaret. The Bible of Illuminated Letters. Barron’s Educational Books: Hauppauge, NY (2006), 256 pp.

Although this is aimed at calligraphers inspired by rather than recreating historical work, it does include clear directions for gold and for illuminated letters in several historical styles, including Ottonian. It has some beautiful examples of historical manuscript pages that I haven’t seen elsewhere, and does discuss techniques like writing with thinned gouache for color calligraphy.

However, the hands presented ARE modernized, and design elements should be compared with historical examples before use. Morgan exaggerates the dangers of many historical pigments and recommends some extremely fugitive modern ones.

I like this book for inspiration, but I definitely recommend pairing it with one of the more historically accurate calligraphy books, such as Harris or Drogin.

15th century Italian Tuesday, Jan 8 2008 

Camicia

This is made out of cheap cotton because I can’t afford to go out and buy sufficient handkerchief linen right now. I will eventually replace it with a nicer linen one.

I embroidered the cuffs on 28-ct (I think) even-weave linen in a red-pink-brown cotton floss, short-armed cross stitch over one thread, because I’m lazy. The pattern is only 5 stitches wide, from the New Carolingian Modelbook, so it’s really narrow. I will be sewing them on by hand and eventually picking them off to put on a linen camicia (for future shirt/camicia/smock cuffs and collars, I’ll use a finer-weight 32-ct linen that I found at a needlework store).

I’m using white bias tape for the binding of the neckline (it’s a semi-quick-and-dirty camicia). I would be embroidering the neck binding if this were a linen camicia.

So far I’ve sewed sleeves and gussets to body, embroidered the cuffs (but not attached them), and pinned the binding to the neckline. In the last two months, most of which it spent not being touched. I really hate working on this thing.

Gamurra

The gamurra is the underdress. I have decided on an underbust waistline, but I’m not sure how I’m going to cut the front opening yet. I started patterning it based on my kirtle/cotehardie pattern, which may or may not be historically correct, but we have no idea! And it’s easy. But I need to get the camicia to a semi-finished state (neckline done and sleeves sewn up) before I can do more fitting.

It will be black silk noil on one side (because I have a lot of it and want to use it up; it also drapes nicely and somewhat resembles wool) and yellow linen/cotton (or linen/rayon? I forget) on the other. I was going to dye my salmon pink linen reddish, but I want this done for Caer Galen A&S on the 27th, so that will be another project. The gamurra will be reversible and lace up the bodice with lacing rings, although I haven’t quite determined how.

Giornea

The giornea is a loose tabard-like overgown, which may be worn belted. Haven’t started this yet, but I’m revising my fabric choices. I was going to do one side in a stylized red floral brocade that seems to be mostly cotton (it has a nice soft but heavy drape) and the other out of a gold brocade Martha Stewart tablecloth.

I originally bought that tablecloth to make a Tudor forepart and undersleeves. But after seizing upon the German loose gown in Janet Arnold, I think I will use it for the decorative part of the a-line kirtle.

So I need to find something else in my stash (I am not buying fabric for this project!) to line the giornea. If nothing leaps out at me, I might make a different style of overdress (unlined) out of a green brocade I got first and wait on the giornea. But the giornea is faster, easier, and more versatile. So, I must ponder!

This whole project is an exercise in reversible clothing, which I think I need more of because closet and packing space are both limited (I plan to make my silk dupioni skirt reversible, too). Also it is an exercise in using up some of my fabric stash. Why do I keep buying fabric?* My goals for 2008 is a partial list of projects I already have fabric for! Anyway, I need to sew more, buy less.

*I found some terrifying polyester “moleskin” with little pierced cutouts for less than $4/yard at Hancock the other day, and while it feels odd and is 100% fake and isn’t going anywhere NEAR a campfire, it looks like lightweight pinked leather. I feel slightly bad about it, but the chances of me EVER pinking a leather doublet, paned slops, and flat hat is…well, negative. It is, unfortunately, a slightly bilious shade of olive green, but I think putting a sunny yellow underneath will help. I am now debating whether it is morally wrong to use some of the 5 yards of silk charmeuse I bought for no reason other than that it was beautiful yellow silk charmeuse for $4/yard and I decided I needed some clothing that wasn’t red or dark blue as underlining for polyester. I think the answer is yes, and I will probably buy some cheap yellow cotton instead because I paid less than $12 for the polyester weirdness and using silk in it is wrong (although I might have to use yellow linen for the lining of the slops, since cotton hangs badly). Anyway! But seriously, pretend pinked leather? How could I pass it up, even if it is made of polyester?

In sum: I have a fabric collection problem.

Embroidery update Sunday, Dec 30 2007 

1. Semi-secret Twelfth Night gift for my lord
Almost done with embroidery, still need to assemble. I took a break on the embroidery last night and started a slip for #3, but I should really return to it tonight and finish the remaining bit.

2. Secret Twelfth Night gift for a friend
Not started, on account of me leaving important components in Colorado.

3. Slip #1 for pillow cover (I did it *facepalm*)
Started outlining. Must keep reminding myself that slips tend to look crappy at the outline stage. I’m thinking about starting to work one of the columbine flowers to reassure myself that it will not continue to look crappy despite my miscounting and compensation (drawn on the fabric would be less stressful than counting, I think, and more period. Next time).

4. Embroidered Westphalian bag for my lord (attempt #2 at a German pouch–#1 fell victim to Poor Project Planning)
Have assembled materials and chosen pattern.

5. Gloves (not quite an embroidery project)
Stalled at the assembly stage on account of hand sewing being dull and the constant shedding of the velveteen all over me being annoying. Also not a Twelfth Night gift, so lower on the priority list.

I am contemplating scarletwork collar and cuffs for a Spanish shirt, with pomegranates. Must finish off other projects first. Also, I have conceived the idea of making period clothes for my Anne of Green Gables doll, a realistic one who bears a striking resemblance (eye color and freckles aside) to the young Princess Elizabeth. I may be insane. But I think it would be interesting and also give me a chance to make the heavily embellished stuff I wouldn’t make full-scale. And perhaps an outfit for every decade, 1500-1600. And a Spanish gown.

Definitely insane. Focus on clothes and embroidery for me and full-sized real people first!

Project update 12/20 Friday, Dec 21 2007 

Green velveteen doublet

I cut out canvas interlining and added some boning. It should ideally be worn over a corset, and probably will be eventually (or passed on to someone smaller than I). I need to take out the shoulder seams and refit the back (I hope that will solve the problem).

15th century Italian chemise

Two movies and an episode of CSI:NY later (I time projects by what I’m watching), I am almost done with the embroidery for the cuffs. It’s a simple, narrow band of 16th century Italian cross-stitch (in the interest of time, short-armed) from the New Carolingian Modelbook. I couldn’t find anything definitively 15th century, but it’s a very simple design. And it still takes an hour an inch. Since I decided I want things embellished right, my concept of appropriate time to spend on an outfit has ballooned. I am not planning on making my own lace, however.

Spanish jerkin

I may hold off on patterning this until I have a corset, since I may want to be able to wear it as a doublet as well (with tie-on sleeves). But I think I have enough thread-wrapped buttons now.

Gloves

I am not yet tackling period gloves, but I bought a nice pair of red leather winter gloves when I am going to attach cuffs to. I’m not embroidering them to death in the satin stitch-and-buillion style that seems to be so common in the late 16th century, but I think my plan is plausible. I will make tabbed cuffs of black velveteen edged with gold lace, with a ruffle of red silk ribbon at the wrist (silk-and-gold ruffles seem to be common on extant pairs). The velveteen will be moderately embroidered with imitation Japan gold in a simple chevron-based pattern and I will sew gold spangles into the lace in lieu of making my own lace (haha). I think it’s a plausible second-best-pair style for lower nobility, particularly c. 1580 rather than later, and I will have something to keep my hands warm at night at Estrella.

The wonderful world of hats

I am pretty unsatisfied with my first attempt at a tall hat (such that I don’t think I’ll ever wear it again). I don’t have sufficient hair to keep a coif on without tons of pins, and I don’t feel stable in a feminine-size tall hat. So I will probably make a full-sized one, and this time I will use one of Lynn McMasters’ patterns. I also want an Italian bonnet, since they’re one of the few things worn with the Spanish doublet gowns I love that isn’t an elaborate hairstyle. And I need a new flat cap (or three) at some point. And a coif or two. I’m also intrigued by this portrait of Katherine Parr, in which she seems to be wearing a plain silk coif with the strings tied around a bun (per Laura Mellin’s theory), with the brim wired and edged with pearls, but not as sharply pointed in front as an “attifet” or a regular coif. The pleated material at the top might possibly be some form of forehead cloth. Anyway, I am intrigued by her hat, which looks like a brimless Tudor flat cap, like the kind men are always wearing in portraits a few decades earlier. But the portrait is from about 1545. I like the effect, though.

Pair of bodies

I have bumped the corset up on my to-do list; I really shouldn’t put it off any further. Sigh. I have pretty much all the materials (unless I decide to use reed instead of cable ties for the first attempt) and I will handsew everything with the blue silk thread I have leftover from another project. Need to decide what to use for the pretty outer layer (I have decided not to have a stereotypical white corset; I’d rather use that handkerchief linen for coifs and such).

In the meantime, corset-free Italian Ren is the next major sewing project.

Like I need more embroidery projects….

But I am temporarily sick of buttons, and embroidery is very portable. I am thinking a handkerchief will be a small project to experiment with reversible blackwork. Probably little Spanish pomegranate motifs in the corners. I really need to get over my love affair with English clothing sometime and do a few Spanish ensembles (a doublet gown, one of the fitted overgowns with doublet and forepart affairs that show up in Spanish and northern Italian paintings, a half bias-cut plaid cotehardie–no, really!–SOMETHING distinctively Spanish, anyway). But English embroidery is more interesting.

Oh my bleeding (almost) fingers Thursday, Dec 6 2007 

After about three evenings of work (perhaps 6-7 hours total), the pearled caul is finished. I didn’t quite get the lining tucked into the band on the inside in a few places, but no one can see that and if it REALLY drives me nuts I can take off the band and restitch everything. The pleating into the band also isn’t very even–pleating a nice plain linen circle into a band is much easier than pleating two layers of heavily couched and beaded fabric into a similarly decorated band. My fingers hurt rather a lot.

But the caul is lovely and ostentatious and should go with the majority of clothes I plan to make (the base color is dark blue).

In a fit of insanity, I’m trying to make a Spanish surcoat (based on the a-lined German-style one without the pleated back on p. 109-110 of Patterns of Fashion) by Saturday, although I intend to close it temporarily with hook and eye tape and make 120 or so thread-wrapped buttons in fits and starts over the next few years (because frankly, that’s 120+ hours if I make the cool ribbed ones and probably about 30 if I make the simple ones, and past experience has shown that any given set of buttons gets boring really fast. Plus I have a set of brown simple buttons with tiger’s-eye beads to finish for my Spanish jerkin first). Or something like that. Anyway, I could then wear it with my blackworked shirt and underskirt with forepart and it would be fairly spiffy (although I should make a loose kirtle eventually). I have a green and gold “wool brocade” which is really made out of horrid synthetics, but which looks and feels nice and some slightly stained lavender linen to line it with. We shall see if this actually happens by Saturday. I think it could with epaulets, but I want to do short paned sleeves, which is slightly intimidating. And of course I should be working on homework and other things as well.

Clothing report (and a new name) Monday, Dec 3 2007 

14th century European

I’m basically done with my 14th century outfit–wore it to Caer Galen Toys for Tots in October. I need to take in part of the waist a tiny bit more so it will hang right, but that’s it. I may eventually rip the sleeves out of the kirtle and redraft them to have mitten cuffs and use wood-cored buttons, but they’re serviceable and I may use my leftover blue linen/cotton for a summer camping event doublet instead.

I got more comments on the belt (which took about three hours total) than anything else, probably because belts are more arcane to most people than sewing. Anyway, I’m pretty excited about it–I dyed it myself (modern dyes), finished the edges with wax (speculative, plausible, and easy to rewax when they get fuzzy–modern Edgecoat looks really, well, modern), and attached mounts until my arm hurt, at which time I handed it over to my lord to finish. The buckle, strap end, purse hanger, and mounts all came from Fettered Cock Pewters. I’m very pleased with the mounts and purse hanger, especially for the price, but pewter is a bit soft for buckles and strap ends, especially since each only has one rivet. Still, you get what you pay for, and FCP is the most affordable source of replica fittings I’ve found. I still need to attach buckle and strap end to my stamped belt a la Museum of London.

I also made a downright hideous tasseled brocade pouch from a remnant someone gave away at fighter practice. It’s handy to have somewhere to shove a wallet, not so handy the way the cords twist up and it bangs against my leg when I walk.

I figured out how to pin my veil pretty nicely (reproduction wimple pins from FCP = also great, but I’m going to order some plain brass reproduction clothing pins from Historic Enterprises for general non-decorative use. I definitely need to make some veils out of silk and lighter-weight linen, and probably a bit larger.

Number one thing I learned: USE WOODEN CORES for cloth buttons (it’s documentable, at least for men, and makes buttoning them much easier. They also look neater).

Pictures when I get around to getting them.

15th century Italian

I’m working on research and patterning for a 15th century Italian gamurra and giornea. Both will be reversible and made from fabric I already have. The hitch is that I want my gamurra to be red, not screaming salmon pink, and I’m not tackling home dyeing until after Christmas. But it should help clean out my stash, and be less of a PITA than the cotehardie (no cloth buttons!). I should have some time to work on this before spring semester starts.

Goal: Done by Caer Galen A&S, January 27

Anglo-Saxon

Ordered some dirt cheap cadet blue linen for the under tunic. Took measurements for the overtunic to be made from embroidered wool (!) tablecloth. Low-priority project.

Elizabethan caul

Since I have a farthingale, underskirt with forepart, and overskirt (and material to make new sleeves) for my Elizabethan doublet, I really need a fancier piece of headwear (not counting my disatisfactory first attempt at a tall hat). I started a caul out of dark blue cotton (horror!) leftover from the underskirt. I laid non-metallic gold soutache down in a grid pattern over it and tacked the intersections down with glass pearls. Now I’m sewing down spangles in every other square. Then I just need to decorate and attach the band. It’s much, much slower than I expected and makes my fingers and back hurt, but it will be insanely ostentatious and probably the simplest piece of headwear I can get away with to go with that dress.

If my lord weren’t planning on making a doublet out of the remaining fabric (I begged enough for the overskirt), I’d consider making a low-necked doublet or gown bodice to wear with the overskirt because I’m itching to embroider a partlet, but honestly, I don’t like the fabric that much–it was given to us and it isn’t totally inappropriate, but it’s a little rubberized and the pattern is off. I should just put my energies into a properly cut Elizabethan gown, if I ever get around to making a corset. Although given my figure, it might be easier and more comfortable to just lightly bone and interline my bodices and doublets.

Might try to put together some paned sleeves before Saturday….

New name

I’ve decided to change from 14th century Mongol to 14th/16th century (depending on my mood) Spanish, on account of accidentally falling in love with European clothing, and also because I’m so compulsive about authenticity with the Mongol stuff I don’t get around to making it. Someday I will. But I think Spanish is more appropriate, given the majority of my SCA interests.

Makes me glad I never got around to submitting a name and device.