Review: Calligraphy Alphabets Made Easy, by Margaret Shepherd Sunday, Oct 19 2008 

This is not a straightforward review–I am reviewing this book strictly in terms of its usefulness as a reference for historical calligraphers. It’s set up for you to work through with an alphabet every day and a project a week, but I’m ignoring that and looking at it solely as an alphabet modelbook.

Calligraphy Alphabets Made Easy
Margaret Shepherd
Penguin, 1986, 112 pp.

This book provides little specific instruction for the individual alphabets, so I would not recommend it for a beginner. Of the 365 alphabets, most are modern or whimsical, but some are historical, historically based, or suitable as faux or pseudoscripts for SCA purposes (faux Chinese, faux Arabic, etc.).

Roman – A straightforward Roman capital hand.
Celtic Any Case – Based on Uncial, but not very historical; I wouldn’t use it.
Namor – Roman mirror writing.
Lower Kingdom – A nice faux Chinese script.
Coiltic – “A fanciful modern invented style, based on 8th-century coiled Celtic.” I don’t know enough about Celtic to comment on this, but it might be a good starting point.
Swash Capitals – Simple swash capitals suitable for use with Italic hands.
Split Swash – Wouldn’t be out of place for the Renaissance.
Basic Gothic – A fairly generic Gothic hand; not glaringly modern, but there are better ones.
Super Celtic – Stretched letters for filling the ends of lines. “Many of these letters come from the Book of Kells.”
Vivaldi – Decorative Italic-based capitals; not historical but would work as capitals with an historical Italic hand.
Swash Italic – A simple swash hand, not extremely historical but a good starting point.
Backward Italic – A back-slanting Italic hand “based on a 16th-century Italian style by Tagliente.”
Turned Celtic – A more historical Uncial-inspired hand.
Arched Italic – Looks a bit like a cross between Batarde and Italic; not historical to my knowledge but looks like something Renaissance calligraphers might have played with.
Caroling – VERY loosely based on Caroline Minuscule; please don’t use this.
Lag B’omer – A faux Hebew script
Jerusalem – A more obviously English faux Hebrew script.
Fraktur – A 16th century German Gothic hand.
Fraktur Capitals – For use with Fraktur.
Concave Gothic and Concave Scroll – A generic modern Gothic hand.
Half-Round Gothic – Somewhat similar to Early Gothic.
Rustica – “A 5th-century rendition of a 1st-century Roman.”
Split Swash – A nice swash capital alphabet for a split pen.
Gothic Caps – Generic Gothic capitals.
Endless – Capital letters made up of continuous lines. Not historical, but would work as a substitute for simple cadels or Italic swash capitals.
Dürer Caps – “Copies of 15th-century German woodcuts.”
Antiquarr – “A 16th-century design by Ludovico Arrighi.” Lowercase, missing j, v, and w.
Magdalene – Capitals “adapted from a 15th-century copy book.”
Frills – “16th-century capitals by Arrighi.” Simple cadels, no j, u, or w.
Florentine – “16th-century Italian style” with decorative descenders.
Russian – A faux Cyrillic hand, but based on modern Russian–not very similar to historical Cyrillic hands.
Delhight – A faux Sanskrit hand.
Upper Kingdom – Another faux Chinese hand. Some of the letters are real Chinese characters or partial ones, so I would be careful using this.
Shivered – A very decorative Gothic hand–similar to some in 16th century modelbook Mira Calligraphiae Monumenta.
Twinings – A generic Gothic hand with a variety of suggested decorative ascenders, some period, some not. Use with care.
Benedictus – “14th-century letters” with decorative ascenders.
Versals – Simple initial letters.
Gothic Initials – A not very exciting set of generic Gothic capitals.
Embellished Gothic – “Some of these ornaments came from medieval manuscripts; others are modern inventions.” A nice hand.

Please note that these assessments are all mine, and I’m not extremely familiar with all the Gothic hands. Overall, however, I think this book has enough historical or near-historical hands to be useful for the SCA calligrapher, and Lower Kingdom and Upper Kingdom are the best faux Chinese scripts I’ve seen so far.

Flemish Book of Hours Friday, Jul 11 2008 

I (possibly stupidly) agreed to do a document for Caer Galen Defender (which I can’t even attend, as I will be traveling for research). More stupidly, I’m attempting a totally new style–the Flemish Book of Hours with naturalistic borders style. I am fairly happy with my version of batarde (although it is more English than French, I think there’s a lot of flexibility with bastard hands), but I haven’t tried out any of the naturalistic flowers and insects yet. I’m still struggling with layout.

But I am very excited, because there is much more scope for symbolism and little personal details for the recipient with this style, and also I am so frustrated with Carolingian it is a relief to do a more forgiving hand.

The text is very long, though which is giving me a challenge of proportions, even if I use the smallest reasonable nib. It will probably end up being a much larger scroll than I like to do.

A Basic Historical Calligraphy and Illumination Library Wednesday, May 14 2008 

Calligraphy (from Greek κάλλος kallos “beauty” + γραφή graphẽ “writing”): The art of writing.

Illumination: Decorations for text, in the strictest definition, gold or silver. These may include decorated letters, margins, miniature paintings, etc.

These are the books I have found most useful for historical calligraphic hands, quill-cutting, information on leafing and historical materials, etc. I haven’t yet found a really good how-to for historical illumination–recommendations welcome.

Harris, David. The Art of Calligraphy: a practical guide to the skills and techniques. Dorling Kindersley: New York (1995), 128 pp.

Includes how to cut quill and reed pens, script timeline, script reference chart, historical background, and instructions for the following hands:

Rustic Capitals (Roman Rustic), Square Capitals, Imperial Capitals (Roman), Uncial, Artifical Uncial (Late Uncial), Insular Majuscule, Insular Minuscule, Caroline Minuscule (Carolingian), Foundational (a post-Renaissance), Early Gothic (Late Carolingian, Carolingian Gothic), Gothic Textura Quadrata, Gothic Textura Prescisus, Gothic Capitals and Versals, Lombardic Capitals, Bastard Secretary (Elizabethan Secretary), Bâtarde, Fraktur, Schwabacher, Bastard Capitals, Cadels, Rotunda, Rotunda Capitals, Humanist Minuscule, Italic, Humanist and Italic Capitals, Italic Swash Capitals, Copperplate and Copperplate Capitals (post-Renaissance)

The two weaknesses of the book are 1) It does not discuss inks, and 2) it presents Secretary as a semi-formal bookhand, and does not show any examples of the commonly used Secretary script used by the Elizabethans for everyday writing, such as letters. Most surviving examples of Secretary are considerably less formal and consistent than bookhands.

This is a fantastic book and I would recommend it over Drogin’s Medieval Calligraphy for the beginner. It also has the advantage in presenting Renaissance hands, and in being full-color, so the numerous examples of manuscripts are easier to read and more inspirational.

Drogin, Marc. Medieval Calligraphy. Dover: New York (1980), 198 pp.

This is the classic reference text for medieval calligraphy. It presents all of the major medieval hands, along with historical background and some minimal discussion of technique and materials. It is in black-and-white, so doesn’t really inspire illumination, but presents a variety of examples of the hands so the reader can see the historical variance. The hands covered are:

Roman Rustic (Rustic Capitals), Uncial, Artificial Uncial (Late Uncial), Roman Half-Uncial, Insular Majuscule, Insular Minuscule, Luxeuil Minuscule, Carolingian Minuscule (Caroline), Early Gothic, Gothic Textura Quadrata, Gothic Textura Prescisus, Gothic Littera Bastarda and Cadels

I find Drogin’s lettering diagrams less easy to follow than Harris’s, and it isn’t always clear when letter forms are modernized. I also strongly disagree with some of his comments on materials, particularly the recommendation of fountain pens, although I agree that quills are difficult to use and can be very frustrating and off-putting for beginners (if I couldn’t use a metal-nibbed dip pen, I would be very frustrated right now). Drogin does not cover Cadels as extensively as Harris.

Overall, while Drogin covers fewer hands than Harris, he does so in more depth. The hands are also presented differently. For example, Drogin’s Bastarda does not involve pen rotations (which can be tricky), while Harris’s does. I recommend both books strongly, as they complement each other well.

Johnston, Edward. Writing & Illuminating & Lettering. Pittman: London (1977).

Johnston was first published in 1906, and it’s pretty dense and sometimes hard to follow, but it’s an invaluable resource. It discusses working surface, quill and reed cutting, letter and line spacing, practicing, rubrication, gold, illumination, and just about everything else, and includes numerous black-and-white illustrations. Although some colors and techniques described are post-Renaissance, much is not.

Dawson, Giles E., and Kennedy-Skipton, Laetitia. Elizabethan Handwriting, 1500-1650: A Manual. W.W. Norton: New York (1966), 130 pp.

This is the only book I’ve found so far that really focuses on everyday writing rather than more formal book- or courthands. It focuses primarily upon the Elizabethan Secretary hand, a bastard script, although it also includes some examples of italic cursive (used primarily by women until 1600 or so, but which replaced Secretary in the 17th century) and a few legal and court hands.

The book includes discussion of Elizabethan spelling and the evolution of the Secretary hand, as well as numerous examples of 16th and 17th century handwritten documents with transcriptions, including several plates from various penmanship books. The handwritings presented vary wildly in formality.

It does NOT include any instructions on the hands themselves. However, between the plates from penmanship books and the instructions for Bastard Secretary in Harris, I imagine one could develop one’s own version of Secretary. There is a lot of latitude for variation.

Cennini, Cennino D’Andrea. Il Libro dell’ Arte (The Craftsman’s Handbook). Trans. Daniel V. Thompson Dover: New York (1933), 142 pp.

Probably written in the 14th century, this is an amazing primary source on Renaissance painting. Although much of it deals specifically with fresco painting, Cennini also discusses pigments, brushes, drawing with silverpoint, drawing on cloth, and many other topics. For instructions of preparing period pigments, it’s hard to beat Cennini. This English translation divides the text into useful sections, including “On the character of ultramarine blue, and how to make it” and “How to paint a dead man.”

The full text is available free online.

Thompson, Daniel V. The Materials and Techniques of Medieval Painting. Dover: New York (1956), 239 pp. (Originally published 1936).

Thompson’s thoroughly researched book covers topics like binding media, gesso, size, oils, pigments, and application of metals in detail. It is an excellent complement to Cennini.

Morgan, Margaret. The Bible of Illuminated Letters. Barron’s Educational Books: Hauppauge, NY (2006), 256 pp.

Although this is aimed at calligraphers inspired by rather than recreating historical work, it does include clear directions for gold and for illuminated letters in several historical styles, including Ottonian. It has some beautiful examples of historical manuscript pages that I haven’t seen elsewhere, and does discuss techniques like writing with thinned gouache for color calligraphy.

However, the hands presented ARE modernized, and design elements should be compared with historical examples before use. Morgan exaggerates the dangers of many historical pigments and recommends some extremely fugitive modern ones.

I like this book for inspiration, but I definitely recommend pairing it with one of the more historically accurate calligraphy books, such as Harris or Drogin.

Why Use Period Paints? Tuesday, May 13 2008 

  1. Historical Accuracy
    This one is fairly obvious: if you are reproducing a historical style of illumination or painting, historically accurate pigments and binders will give the best results. Mixing your own paints by hand will create the same color and texture variations, and historical binders such as gum arabic, egg tempera, and glair all have unique properties that help reproduce specific effects.
  2. Understanding Your Materials
    On a related note, understanding the historical materials as well as possible will help you understand why and how medieval and Renaissance artists chose particular color combinations or created particular effects. Even if you only use period materials once, they will give you a better idea of how to choose and use modern substitutes.
  3. Understanding Your Work
    To understand the role of the illuminator in medieval society, it helps to physically go through the steps of making an illuminated page, not merely read about them. Mixing your own paints is part of this process.
  4. Beauty
    Okay, this one is subjective. But I think that the textural and tonal variation of non-standardized pigments is a large part of what creates the beauty of medieval manuscripts. Yes, some of the colors will fade over time (so do many modern synthetic colors). Taking appropriate care of your work and keeping it out of direct sunlight helps. Medieval people were not stupid–they recognized the toxicity of many of their pigments, and they recognized the fugitive or reactive natures of some as well. That’s why Cennini, in the Renaissance, warns against “soiling your mouth with [orpiment], lest you suffer personal injury” and tells users of realgar, “look out for yourself.” And that’s why saffron, a fugitive dye, was used primarily in book illumination, where it would be protected from light.
  5. Fun
    Another subjective one: I think it adds to the satisfaction if you make your own paints. The more you put into your work, the more satisfying it is. Also, I’ve always found playing with colors and solutions fun, and I don’t think I’m alone in that.
  6. Affordability
    Good quality premixed gouache and watercolors are pretty expensive, running $5-20 per 15 ml tube. A small bottle of gum arabic ($13) or an egg (< $1) will make a lot of paint, and most historical pigments are quite affordable. A little pigment and a little binder will make a lot of paint, and earth oxides in particular cost pennies. If you’re willing to put in more work, historical paint can easily be cheaper to work with than premixed paints of comparable quality.

Ottonian Award of Arms for Andreas von Wittelsbock Sunday, Apr 13 2008 

Click for larger images.

So, this is my second SCA award scroll, an Award of Arms for Lord Andreas von Wittelsbock of the Barony of Dragonsspine (my former barony). It’s based on a page from the Trier Gospels (late 10th century German, according to the book I had, but possibly earlier? And the image I used as reference doesn’t look like the Trier Gospel images I’m finding online…). I’m still struggling with the gold-on-purple, so I did regular calligraphy for this one (and I think it’s better spaced, but more wobbly and inconsistent). I’m happy with the composition of the illumination, and my color choices, not so much with my lousy planning on the test layout. The zoomorphic B is a direct copy, except I simplified the tongue a lot to save my sanity (it was late). The original knotwork tongue fills the majority of the letter and makes me cross-eyed. The E is also a direct copy. The border is simplified. Overall, I think it’s a vast improvement over my first scroll, and I’m pretty happy with it. I hope the recipient is as well!

Paints Used:

M. Graham gouache: Pyrrol Red, Viridian, Titanium White, Ivory Black
Winsor & Newton watercolor: French Ultramarine (Green Shade) — this is, as far as I can tell, pretty indistinguishable from the usually more violet ultramarine, which kind of annoys me. So far, I’m pretty disappointed with most of the W&N products I’ve tried.
Holbein watercolor: Indian Red
Jacquard PearlEx: Brilliant Gold

Colors Used:
Green: Viridian + Titanium White
Blue: French Ultramarine + Titanium White
Red: Pyrrol Red + Indian Red
Gray: Ivory Black + Titanium White
White, Gold: unmixed

Paper: Canon cold-press watercolor paper (not up to trying to cut my big sheet of Arches hot-press yet)

I think my plans at this point are to exactly copy manuscript pages, mimicking the letter spacing, until my calligraphy starts looking “right” to me, and to find the perfect outlining brush. My outlining is better, but still not as tidy as I want.

Ottonian scroll #2! Saturday, Apr 12 2008 

I finished my second AoA scroll, for a specific person I haven’t met. It’s also Ottonian, and while I wasn’t able to figure out what I really wanted to do, it’s more complicated than the last one and I’m pretty happy with it (aside from the fact that I had Poor Planning on the text and I’m crossing my fingers it’ll be approved with such abbreviated text and the Royal signatures at the top instead of the bottom…if not, I’ll redo it). I did better with my color choice this time, although my outlines still need serious work (I think I just haven’t found the perfect brush for outlines yet–it has to carry sufficient paint but not too much, and have a fine point).

I shall post a picture later, after it has been awarded. Photos in bright sunlight are definitely better than scans or color copies, wow. Good thing I live in Colorado.

On other projects, I found an amazing gold and red chenille remnant and I’m working on a kirtle (fronted with Martha Stewart tableclothes I’ve been hoarding forever, haha) and loose gown. It is so. freaking. pretty. And I love loose gowns, because they are comfy, look fine without a corset, and are not fitted much and are thus less stressful to make. Sasha fitted me for a doublet and bodice pattern, and now I need to make a boned kirtle and then go from there.

Fun with color swatches Monday, Mar 24 2008 

Paint Swatches

Mostly M. Graham, except earth and indanthrene blue watercolors (Winsor & Newton, Holbein for the Yellow Ochre and Indian Red) and saffron (natural). The colors are a bit off:

paintswatches.jpg

Saffron: Attempt #1

A color which is made from an herb called saffron is yellow. You should put it on a linen cloth, over a hot stone or brick. Then take half a goblet or glass full of good strong lye. Put this saffron in it; work it up on the slab. This makes a fine color for dyeing linen or cloth. It is good on parchment. And see that it is not exposed to the air, for it soon loses its color. And if you want to make the most perfect grass color imaginable, take a little verdigris and some saffron; that is, of the three parts let one be saffron; and it comes out the most perfect grass-green imaginable, tempered with a little size, as I will show you later.
-Cennino d’Andrea Cennini, Il Libro dell’ Arte, trans. Daniel V. Thompson, Jr.

Saffron was typically mixed with glair in medieval times–a pinch of dried saffron was allowed to infuse into glair and it was good to go. It was used for both calligraphy and illumination in books, due to its fugitive nature. I’ve found some about saffron (especially in calligraphy) in Islamic illumination, but I have to pursue that further.

I also found a great reference from a Persian manuscript about how verdigris (prepared with yogurt!) will damage paper, and this may be averted by mixing it with saffron. So the verdigris + saffron combination wasn’t just a European thing.

Anyway, on account of wanting to see what saffron looked like, I infused it in gum arabic, since I haven’t mixed up any glair yet. It took a while to infuse (I might have speeded this process by mulling; I’ll try that next time), and made a very transparent, pale, bright yellow very close to true but with the faintest warmth to it. To be honest, I was expecting something with more of an orange tint to it. It was warmer than azo yellow and much cooler than gamboge hue, so I’m back to the drawing (painting?) board on a synthetic substitute. I ended up mixing the saffron with a touch of titanium white to make it cover more readily.

Here are the yellows I played with today. The saffron is natural Spanish saffron (yum! It smelled really good while I was painting), the azo yellow, titanium white, and gamboge are M. Graham gouache, and the gamboge WC is M. Graham watercolor (the viridian is also M. Graham watercolor, and I think I may end up getting the gouache version for mixing with white as a malachite substitute–it’s not quite right for verdigris, and I think I’ll have to carefully make some before I can really do comparisons. The photo is, of course, not a perfect representation.

yellows

Calligraphy and illumination class! Monday, Mar 10 2008 

I’m going to take a calligraphy and illumination class in May, which I expect to be fun. Here’s the class description:

Celtic And Historical Calligraphy

During this course you will learn the skills of the masters of European Calligraphy. We’ll cover historical inking colours, their origins and how they are made. Parchments and vellums, various papers, quill types, quill cutting, scripting tables, layout geometry, and related themes will be demonstrated and discussed. Period scripting and styles, including Celtic, Ottonian, Renaissance, and others, will be explained and illustrated. Skill in scripting, design, illustration, and illumination is used in historical reproduction work as well as modern art. The information presented will surprise modern digital graphic ad layout artists, enhancing their knowledge and depth in their own professional fields. Please bring $10 to class for materials.

It’s a two-day workshop taught by Dan Cheatham II, who’s clearly trying to spin it to appeal to modern graphic artists, but his real interests are historical. So more practice making period paints, AND he has genuine lapis and malachite to play with, which will be exciting since there is no freaking way I’m going to buy lapis to grind up myself at the current prices. So this may be my chance to find out how genuine lapis looks and handles differently from synthetic ultramarine.

Dan also teaches a longbow making class, which would really tempt me if I liked shooting longbows, which I don’t. But I am tempted by the leatherwork class, since several people have suggested tooling as an alternative to stamping for the Gothic-lettered motto belts I want to make from Dress Accessories, and Melchior and his boss don’t do tooling at work on account of things like profit margins. So getting some instruction in that might be a good idea. I’ll have to see how finances and time go.

There’s a baronial corset workshop coming up, so I need to do a mockup fitted as far as I can get without help on the modified Dorothea bodies.

My first award scroll Sunday, Mar 9 2008 

Ottonian blank AoA

(click for larger image)

I finished my first award scroll for the blank scroll competition at Outlands Crown this weekend (Lady Lucrezia took it for me). It’s based loosely on the Gregori Moralium, a 10th-11th century Ottonian manuscript, and I’m not exactly pleased with it–it was my first attempt and has loads of problems, both in terms of historical accuracy and technique (my Carolingian spacing in particular needs lots of work!), but I learned a lot. You can also tell that I became much steadier with my brush about halfway through–all the outlining on the illumination is done with a brush, including the really fine lines around the text decorations. The outlining on the initial U was a lot messier before I went over it again, which is why that outlining is so broad. This was also the first time I used a dip pen, and while it’s much easier than a cartridge pen, you can definitely tell I wasn’t quite used to it.

I really like Ottonian stuff, though, and since Carolingian is the only hand I’ve tried that doesn’t make me want to give up in frustration, I think I’ll stick with this style for now. I’d really like to try the gold-on-purple, and some of the zoomorphic animal initials. I might also see if anyone needs Russian or Arabic scrolls, since I’m fairly sure I could do those after refreshing my Arabic alphabet. I’m hoping to do some non-blank scrolls, though….

Full documentation (written in an afternoon and not really up to my usual citation standards) can be downloaded here: Documentation for Ottonian blank AoA (PDF).

Golden Horde yarlik project: the idea Monday, Mar 3 2008 

So, I used to have a 14th century Ilkhanid Mongol persona (Mongol-dominated Persia). Ever since I found out about yarliks (decrees, usually granting authority) of Golden Horde Russia (the qatuns even issued them, not just the qans), I have badly wanted to do an SCA award scroll in the style of a yarlik. I was fortunate enough to see one in the State Historical Museum in Moscow three years ago, and I have some blurry pictures to remind me. Fortunately, it’s all text. Here’s the best picture I have:

Yarlik of Timur-Kutluga Qan (it’s sideways)

The label said, approximately, “Yarlik of the qans of the Golden Horde, which confirmed the rights
of Russian princes to rule(?)” (I’m not sure about the last word; need to look it up). It dates to 1397 C.E.

And here’s a picture from Wikipedia of an Ilkhanid Quran.

Both documents seem to have the alternate scripts going on. At first I thought they might be different languages, but after reading the Wikipedia entry on Islamic calligraphy, I think it’s actually Kufic for the main text, with cursive Naskh (similar to the modern Arabic script I learned in college).

So then the question becomes what language the yarlik is in (or what language yarliks were commonly written in). There is all but nothing online about yarliks, so I’m going to have to get a stack of books out of the library again and hit the journals. I’m not sure any of the sources I looked at a few years ago said much about either language or style.

There are three possibilities:

-Arabic (unlikely)
-A Mongolian language (most likely)
-Russian (possible, since yarliks were often given to grant authority to Russian nobles, but unlikely)

So, stuff I need to do:

1. Find out what language yarliks were typically in (let’s assume Mongol for now).
2. Find out the style of Golden Horde yarliks.
3. Write an alternate SCA award text in that style.
4. Get it approved.
5. Find someone to translate said text into Mongol.
6. Transliterate said text phonetically into Arabic (ideally, I’d like to find period rules for this, but I’m not holding my breath on the likelihood of that).
7. Learn to write Kufic.
8. Brush up on Naskh.
9. Wait for someone with a Mongol persona who’s into authenticity to be up for an award.
10. Make scroll.

…good thing this is a long-term goal.

But oh, it would be SO FREAKING AWESOME, ‘cos I don’t think anyone’s ever done this in the SCA before. There have been Persian scrolls and Russian scrolls and Chinese-style Mongol scrolls (three that I know of), but I’ve never heard of anyone doing a yarlik in Arabic script before.

(So in other news, I decided to take up bobbin lace, calligraphy, and illumination. Right now I’m playing with Ottonian, because I heart Carolingian miniscule.)